here is a picture of my 14 year old clown, aka big mamma. she is around 5" long. i have never posted a pic of her and thought she deserves some respect. she is in a 55 gallon until i get my new 'fish cave' done. will be putting her in a 6' 125 gallon tank.
Edit to include larger image, Corailline. 3/15/2015
Branching cyphastrea appears very similarly to encrusting types with corallites ranging from about two to three millimeters in diameter spaced out uniformly overly a contrasting smooth skin. Growth is formed much like an acropora with axial polyps leading branches toward a source of light. Star shaped polyps extend from within corallites to capture food.
Cyphastrea decadia is still a ridiculously rare specimen to behold which I have to date only seen in the display of local fish store Aqua Imports. It is housed under full SPS lighting but at the bottom and under slight shade of a rock outcropping which leads me to...
I have something eating one, maybe two, of my SPS corals and I need some advice.
Through some research and visual evidence, I believe I have narrowed this pest down to some sort of coral eating worm. The primary visual evidence I see that brings me to this conclusion is each morning this has been happening, there’s a tiny tube made of what looks like sand (Sand tube) running along the eaten parts of the coral to the newest spot that has been eaten. You can't really see it in the attached pic, but it's there on the back side.
I have removed the tube a few times by scraping it off, but it usual gets re-built within a day or two.
I need some advice on the best course of action. I may be able to remove the rock the corals is attached to without too much disruption, but there are other healthy corals on that rock to – orange montiporas.
If I can remove the rock, should I dip the whole thing in coral dip? would a fresh water bath be better? I would think...
BRT LArval rearing system
I have finished my larval system. It has a BRT (Black round tub) larval tank, hooked to a 50 gal sump and skimmer. The BRT has a central standpipe with a bubble ring on the bottom. This keeps the larva suspended in a kreisel type current and off the wall. The central standpipe can be adjusted for height to control larval volume. The central filter is removable for cleaning and is wrapped in 250 micron cloth. The water delivery to the BRT from the sump is designed to be very slow. I emerges just below the bubble ring and is part of the up flow. My goal is to cycle the larval water every 1-2 days. This a drip at best. The BRT drain is 1/4 tubing and it terminates in the sump above water so I can count the drops to estimate the turnover rate. Both tanks require heaters because of the extremely slow turnover rate.
I am now waiting to establish the next Neon Goby fry date and I will fill the larval system from the brood stock system and see how it goes....