Where to buy supplies

i was wondering if it is better to order online or go to pet shops

i went to a local pet store and got a ro/di unit but it didnt come with a
psi gauge or dual inline tds meter dm-1 h digital

i was considering going buy it a bulkreefsupply.com

will i need these accessories for my ro/di unit i think it would be very helpfull

what site should i go to buy a calcium reactor for my 75 gallon reef tank
can i just buy a co2 tank locally and the rest online?

 

It's a matter of personal preferrance. I hardly spend any money at my LFS mainly because they seem to believe thier goods are diamond studded 24k gold.
As far as RO/DI units go you will definately find a better deal online and get a unit that you actually need and not a bunch of unnecessary extras. I have used the filter guys for awhile now. Just google it.

 

I buy most of my equipment online but only because I have not found a LFS close by that is worth supporting. If you do then I would use them even if it costs you a little more cash, in an emergency they will be your savior with both knowledge and equipment.

Bulk reef supply is a good place for getting equipment, the TDS meter and PSI gage are optional but highly recommended and can both be purchased separately if needed.

I don't have a calcium reactor so I cant help with that question.

good luck

 

A tds meter is well worth buying so you can moniter your filter media and membrane performance and replace them only when needed.They are also availible on the AirWaterIce website along with connectors you may need to install if you choose the inline,just click on accesseries.

 

I prefer to shop at a LFS when possible but many cannot compete with online vendors due to the manufacturer/wholesaler/supplier agreements. My LFS cannot buy things wholesale for what many online vendors sell it reatil. I give them the first shot though on just about everything and often they get my business.

For RO/DI, yes you do want a TDS meter, I prefer handheld but inline is OK I actually have and use both, and a pressure gauge. You cannot troubleshoot a RO or RO/DI without them. No one comes close to Spectrapure in either quality or in price, check out the CSP-DI is this slaes flyer:
SpectraPure Customer Appreciation SALE! 20% - 50% off

Spectrapure also has a Sponsors Forum on 3Reef, its nice to support those who support this hobby and this site!

 

OK....stupid question, but does the pressure gauge go on the feed water side? What exactly are you looking for with the gauge?

 

The standard inline gauge goes after the prefilter and carbon but before the RO membrane so you are looking at actual pressuer available to the membrane. This allows you to see when the filters become fouled or plugged with sediment, particulates and colloidal materials. I go one step further and have a gauge on the tap water side of the prefilter too so I can see any pressure drop at a glance. With the single gauge you get flowing pressure when the system is running but have no idea the tap pressure unless you shut the treated water and waste water flows off, as with an autoshutoff valve so you get static or non flowing pressure to compare against. With my two gauges I get both sides of the filters at a glance. Just another nice inexpensive tool to have in your arsenal.

You should change your prefilter and carbon when you see a 5-10% drop in pressure or at 6 month intervals, whichever comes first.

 

thanks for the info

 

Ebay. Even with postage most things are cheaper with postage, than they are alone in my LFS, and another plus I dont have to get off my butt to order the stuff lol

 

I just purchased a Typhoon from AWI. Their customer support is top notch.
I have learned a hard lesson on purchasing a less expensive RO/DI unit, which is why I had to purchase a new one. My first one lasted me a good 5 years, and recently started leaking through every canister/stage. Buying 3 new canisters and new membrane housing would have ended up costing almost as much as a new unit anyway. Back then, I figured I would save $30 by getting a no-name brand, and that decision ended up costing me another $180 on a good unit. So I spent $310 total when it would have just cost me $180 if I bought a good quality one to begin with.