What NeXT?

So after researching quite a bit and being patient, I have my tank at 1.024 and set at 78 degrees. LS and LR have been put in the tank . Ncycle is in progress. Sump, protien skimmer, and overflow is on the way to my house. Reef test kit has been purchased. Ro/di unit has been purchased and installed. Am I on the right track ? What's next ? Lighting ? Once the ncycle completes , can I safely add fishes ? Or am I missing some components ?

 

I'd recommend getting your SG up a bit.... 1.026...

Lighting is certainly next. I'd recommend a refugium as well.

WAIT to add fishes until after cycle is complete.

M


PS You are very much on the right track

 

Everyone has an opinion on things. I think your salt is fine. You are quite thorough, well on your way. Some like refugiums some don't bother. I have seen that you can still have problems with or without them, it is up to you. Starting out with a good T5 fixture is a good start.
Here is my own mini-essay on cycling;

Tank cycling:There are some who would tell you that once "the numbers" are all good the cycle is over and you are ready to go, I am not one of those. What many beginner (even some advanced) aquarium keepers are not (fully) aware of is that the full cycle takes at least 6-8 months. The reason being, mainly, is this is the time required to fully cultivate a total beneficial bacterial base and achieve a saturation of such. Also, allowing the tank to "season" and go through the inevitable mini-cycles and diatom blooms and get fully established is the key to a healthy and stable tank in the future. You could have one fish after about the 6 week mark, let the tank get established by light feeding and going through a moderate light cycle (6-8 hours) for the next 3 weeks.At the 2 month mark, A 25% water change of the "total"water volume is in order. After that, add a few clean up critters (crabs and/or snails) and allow the tank to "catch up" to the added load (you may at this time add some live bacteria to help in this process) and give it another 2 weeks doing all your tests on a regular (weekly) basis and determine if the tank is stable. Water changes of 30% should be carried out once a month to once every 5-6 weeks. Coral should not be introduced (even soft) until the tank is around 3-4 months old. Too many beginners don't exercise the proper patience and discipline at this early stage of getting their tank going only to have problems and head aches down the road. Once the tank has gone through this full cycle period and the tank is stable, then and only then, should you add more difficult coral like hard coral. I always employed a bit of advice I got when I was starting out to add bacteria after each water change for the first and subsequent next 4-5 changes. After the 4th water change then and only then add to the tank and minimally at that.
Another good tactic I learned is to add (whatever you are adding) a couple days after a water change. This gives the new creature fresh minerals and trace elements and a good 3-4 weeks (I adhere to 4-5 week intervals between changes) to adjust to the new water parameters, light, temp etc. before disrupting the tank for the next water change.
I hope this helps.

 

I actually like my salinity near the 1.024 mark since evaporation will raise it and when I am super busy and can't manually top-off, it doesn't climb too high starting lower.

Sounds like you have most of your ducks in a row. What lighting you need all depends on what type of tank you're going for. If you want a FOWLR you won't need anything that special, if you want a Reef, yes you will need a nice T5 fixture or MH one.

 

thanks guys, now help me out with lighting !!

I'm looking at an MH combo fixture for keeping lps, sps, clams, etc. Im no electrician and cant do a diy fixture, so I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a 72" fixture. I'm convinced that 3x250W should be used for that size tank. Now my question is, what fixture do i go with? I was looking at the hamilton technology belize 72" ::


Hamilton Technology 72 inch Metal Halide Fixtures T5 HO Belize Sun


or the 72" reef illumination, but its internal ballasts, heavyness, and unpleasant appeal make me a little hesistant ::

IceCap 72" Reef Illuminations 3 x 250W Metal Halide, T5 & LED Aquarium Lght Fixture - AquaCave

or any other choices out there? help me out because i know absolutely nothing about lighting

 

I would say your good for now and lighting wise, T5 or MH for reef tank and PC or VHO for FOWLR. I would have to agree with unclejed about the tank cycle. Most tanks don't become stable and mature enough til around 6 months-a year. The key to this hobby is taking it "slow".

 

Definitely don't go cheap on the lights (depending on what you are planning on keeping in the tank +1 MoJoe).... if you research/shop around you WILL "get what you pay for".... Get a good light system since you aren't trying to build your own. How deep is your tank? I have 150W halides and 3 250 halides sounds like you're running at least a 170+ gallon DT? What are the dimensions of your tank?

 

the tank is a 125G (72 x 18 x 24). I was told to go with the 250watt halides so I don't have to spend extra money down the road. I would like to setup a reef tank with fish. I will certainly take it slow, I'm in no rush. So what 250watt MH combo fixture is best with the budget i have. I would like to stick around the $1000-1300 range.

 

I just went down this though process myself in setting up my tank. At only 24 inch depth, you probably don't need the 250W MH. Deep tanks need those. For mine, I was willing to spend the money, that wasn't my issue fortunately.... but 2in10 (the best overall lighting guru on 3reef) and Dingo (the MH expert) ended up convincing me that 8 T5's was sufficient for what I needed.

Factors included 1) not putting so much light in there at low light corals would be bleached. 2) Having better control of the spectrum range selected through bulb types. 3) better distribution of lighting. 4) Less heat.

There folks that will swear that MH is better than T5 and LED is better than whatever. LED's are the most focused and therefore lose the least light and are most power efficient. MH are big and strong but more limited in flexibility and have heat issues that can be easily solved. T5's are more middle of the road, but I haven't identified anything you can't do regardless of which you choose.

I would highly recommend talking to 2in10 and Dingo. They are the experts in this domain.

Mark

 

I didn't see a 72" T5 fixture . I see alot of threads with the title " COMING FROM T5, GOING TO MH". I will continue looking and browsing

Any other input or experience with the fixtures I listed ?