Sump / ATO ideas

For anybody that remembers my old BC14, it is now down for the moment.
It will return with a sump/or\fuge and a MH


My only reservation is how to setup the sump so I won't overfill my 14g...incase the OF siphon breaks or a snail gets caught.

Now a ? for somebody that knows pumps, overflows, and ATOs.
Since its a 14g, and the sump will be at most 8ft below the tank I wouldn't need too much flow.

How do ATO float switches turn off pumps when used as a max level?
Would this be possible to make work on a maxijet?

 

This sounds like a overflow problem. You should not use ATO for filling tanks or controlling pumps. It is nice for evaporation from your sump/main tank but to control the flow to your sump could bring in extra headaches. If you like a cluttered mess then start adding in sensors. You could be inventive:
Melevsreef.com - Automatic Top Off System

I have a Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155 it works great for evaporation.

Zak

 

Sorry, I should probably re-write that when I'm not overtired.

My goal is to keep my BioCube from overfilled with a sump.



The ATO switch idea was to shutoff the sump's return pump incase a siphon was broken.
You can add extra space in the sump for water...not in the main tank

 

Water level of the sump makes no difference with the mini tank the water from the tank going to the sump is dictated by the speed of the return pump if you have the overflow set up properly. If I follow your question correctly ? As for a main pump a mag 2 with a valve will do the job all you need to move is about 50 gph up from the sump. As for the siphon ? if you have a good commercially made overflow ? of proper design then there will be little chance of that happening people panic when they see a bubble to collect in the top of the J tubes But thats normal and after the flow out if settled with the flow it that will seek its own level and will move any additional air acclimation once they equalize Noe again if made correctly then a snail would find it hard to get into the overflow..Send me some pictures of what you are working with and I'll have a look . As for the J tube ever siphoned water and have it to slow down and collect some air pockets ? then you lower the bucket end of the hose and the air is pushed out its the same principle at work . Less water flow more air bubbles and increased water flow less air

 

What about drilling the back of the cube & install a bulkhead? You could use the overflow already in the tank & direct it to the sump. Basically you'd have an internal overflow.

 

Backs of BCs are tempered glass. I do have another tank that would be a nicer replacement...I don't wanna break it

I actually don't have anything yet except the BC. Its still in the planning phase.

My worry for the whole thing isn't so much for random siphon breaks, is more for power outages...we get a lot of random trips. Hopefully I can rig up something to shut the return pump off if the siphon is broken during an outage and starts to overflow the display.

I've never used an OF box before personally, can they really hold siphon over outages? The tanks in my bedroom, and I dont want a flood.

 

OF boxes hold when the power goes out. This they can do as long as you pipe from the pump is near the top of you main tank. If you in pipe is lower, lower then your OF box, then water will syphon back and if it goes low enough you will lose your syphon. (if this happens you sump will most likely be leaking water over the top!!)
OF boxes are a very last resort. They suck! They will last about 3-4 days before you must play with them to get your flow back to normal. I have a aqua lift pump but it does not work. The air bubbles do not rise to the top because I have too much flow. If I slow it down I might as well not have a filter.

I have not even touched the prefilter on your overflow box fills with crap all the time. <-- this slows the overflow speed and your pump will overflow your main tank.

Again...OF box is last resort!!

Zak

 

Have any recommendations on size of holes + return pump...its going to be an sps tank with fuge under it, not a true sump.

Anybody know of good glass bits that 'might' work on tempered glass?

 

Yesterday 09:04 PMMDethHave any recommendations on size of holes + return pump...its going to be an sps tank with fuge under it, not a true sump.
It all really depends how much flow you want. Normally refugiums have a very slow turnover. Once you find out how much turnover you want, don't forget to consider head loss. If the return pump is at ground level, and has to pump the water back up, the GPH the pump is rated at will drop. Most pumps have a head loss chart. I would also recommend Mad Drive pumps. They are small, powerful, on reliable.

Also, if you are having problems figuring out an overflow for your setup, you should check out a thread here on 3Reef. I think it's titled "Nice Cheap Overflow". I somewhat had the same problem you have with your BC14. I didn't want to drill it, but I wanted a nice reliable overflow. Found this cheap PVC overflow that I tuck behind the display in one of the chambers, that way no livestock can take a ride to the sump or clog the overflow.

Another thing. The overflow will only drain as much water as the return pump in pumping into the display. So the turnaround is set by the return pumps flow rate. Also, you don't need to worry about overflowing the display as long as you set the correct water level in the refugium. If set right, and the siphon stops for whatever reason, the water level in the refugium will drop low enough to where the pump can't get enough water to be able to pump anymore into the display.

Sorry if this was too much info...

 

The only way this will work is if you are not using an ATO. AND you will need to keep an extra pump on hand because every few days when your overflow slows down you will burn out your main pump.

Avoid HOT overlfows! Go with a standpipe! Or drill the back of your tank. Do not use tempered glass tanks. [cannot drill them ]

Zak