RODI not workin

I here ya just went through a crash course with mine last week.

 

The permeate pump will act as an auto shut off valve if one isn't installed.

You should reduce your tank pressure to 7 psi.

As mentioned above, some pictures that show how you've routed the tubing would help.

Make sure your flush valve is closed.

What is your watr pressure?

Russ

 

The Aquatec diagrams show different plumbing configurations with and without an ASOV. A permeate pump can take the place of an ASOV when plumbed correctly.

Why do you have all the filters in front of the RO membrane? You are doing much more harm than good since every filter has a headloss or pressure drop associated with it. The idea is to restrict the pressure as little as possible before the membrane while still protecting it. All those filters, especially the GAC with a carbon block following it are a huge pressure loss and cut back on both GPD and rejection rate.

All you need for a better system is a single sediment filter and single 20,000 gallon carbon block. Stick with something like a 1.0, 0.5 or if you have sediment problems a pleated 0.2 micron sediment filter which actually causes less presure loss while filtering many times better and can be rinsed several times before needing replaced.

If pressure is low on the membrane side it can cause the system to run continously.

As Russ said, the pressure in the bladder tank should be 5-7 psi.

 

Thanks AZ :thumbs_up just shows no matter how old one gets you still learn new things. after searching a wile i found a diagram that shows both ways of hooking it up good to know for future reference.

 

Were not old, we are just reaching our prime!

 

Amen brother!

 

wow, what a relief.. I found the problem. I think. I started trouble shooting like anything else, and started at the beginning. Good pressure at the line, then the first four canisters, then the last in the sequence, I had a 1 micron carbon block before the membrane.. it was either completely clogged OR can a cartridge be off center by a 1/8" and cause a problem? I noticed the imprint was pretty far off to one side but still sealed the outside from the inside. What is weird is it was like this from the start when I added everything so I thought no big deal.. It made water, and I was all right. The TDS was high at the beginning, I did see it come down... so couple weeks went by, and booom goes the dynamite, CYANO like you wouldnt believe. TDS was at 130+ on the RO side.. So Im thinking it went like this. Off center (gasket blocking outlet or inlet on canister cap) or blocked cartridge from the beginning did not allow for much flow to flush the membrane. TDS crept up and caused the bloom.. well my TDS is 10 on the membrane output now, and before the newly replaced DI resin.. No wonder my resin depleted within a few weeks!

Btw, can you get a bad cartridge right out of the bag? It is still a mystery to me. :-/

 

The lids are made so that the cartridges center themselves. So its not likely that flow was blocked by a cartride being a little off center. If you saw the impression on the rubber gasket, it was sealing. My guess is that the cartridge was clogged. I've never seen a clogged, new carbon block. In a post above I asked what your water pressure was and you didn't respond. My guess is you don't have a pressure gauge. Especially with all your prefilters, you should have at least one pressure gauge. Put it after the last prefilter (prefilter=all the filters that come before the membrane in order of water flow) but before the membrane. A pressure gague and a TDS meter are two must-haves if you are going to troubleshoot these systems.

Russ

 

Just re-read your earlier posts.

Do you have chloramines in your water? If not, no need for more than 1 good quality carbon block. And I would recommend you get rid of the GAC stage. Standard GAC is out of place in the high capacity systems we use in this hobby, and a system with two other carbon stages surely doesn't need a GAC stage. I suspect it was carbon fines from a new GAC stage that clogged your carbon block. Did you flush the GAC stage before you put it in the system?

Also - make sure you have your plumbing configured such that water from the pressure tank never reaches your DI stage. The tank water should go to a carbon stage, and then to the faucet, but not to the DI.

Russ

 

Dont have a pressure gauge will get one.
We have chloramines in our water.
I rinsed the GAC till it ran clear.
Im pretty sure the cartridge it was clogged from the beginning now.

Ok, so whats this about tank water not going to DI? The water from the tank goes to a Y that splits to DI and then to the carbon after the tank that goes to faucet and ice maker (forgot to mention that part). Should I put the DI input after the last carbon?

Edit: ok after searching some, your saying I need some check valves so the tank water never goes to DI because of TDS creep in the tank. ok, they make 1lb and 4lb which ones to I need? Btw I empty the tank (3 gallon) at least 3 times a day. I alone drink at least a 1.5 gal of water a day, filling gallon jugs in the morning. The tank uses about a gallon around noon and one in the evening. I usually empty it to get water to cook with as well. My wife doesnt care about the cost of water filtration, I showed her the sediment out of the faucet in a 5 gallon bucket. brown water. I showed her the last prefilter and she was grossed out. lol.