RO/DI under sink installation help

Discussion in 'New To The Hobby' started by JustOneMore23, Jul 30, 2009.

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  1. Robman

    Robman Great White Shark

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    This is my install--I know it has the saddle valve. I moved the saddle valve lower later, cause there was some splashing in the sink from the drain. It only makes a tiny hole, and I just put a dab of silicone in the hole. There is no pressure on the drain pipe so it wont leak. Maybe you can let your folks know that and change their mind. Anyway, here is the install. Hope something in this will help.
    http://www.3reef.com/forums/filters-etc/step-step-pics-ro-di-install-62743.html
     
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  3. wiigelec

    wiigelec Fire Shrimp

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    JustOneMore23,

    Ok first, the end you have pointing towards the camera, that end should be to the wall, ie flip it 180.

    With the plastic piece you are showing here is what I would get:

    You will need a cap plug that will fit on the male threads of your plastic piece. Remove the metal cap on the Lowes part directly across from the largest compression fitting and the plastic part should thread directly to the Lowes piece. The copper to the sink should fit in the fitting on top of the Lowes part. You will also need some 1/2" teflon tape, preferably the red stuff.

    Did the RO/DI come with any ball valves?

    I hope I am making sense :confused:
     
  4. JustOneMore23

    JustOneMore23 Astrea Snail

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    Oh yeah, I knew the part needed to be switched with the larger end towards the wall, but just for comparison, I put the larger end towards the camera. :D

    The fitting on top of the Lowes part is 1/4" OD I think. The copper will fit there? Or do you mean the smaller end?

    I have some Teflon tape, but I think its white.

    The only ball valve the ro/di came with is one that goes inline with the tubing to turn it on and off. It looks like this:

    John Guest inline ball valve Bulk Reef Supply

    Yes, you are making sense! :)
     
  5. JustOneMore23

    JustOneMore23 Astrea Snail

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    So, after all that, I talked it over with my mom and we ended up using the saddle valve and the drain connection. I still have some questions though.

    I installed the ball valve inline with the source water. Can I just turn that off to turn off the filter? Or should I turn off the valve on the saddle valve?

    Also, my chambers are leaking at the tops. :( My DI chamber was leaking alot but I just tightened the top on it as much as I could, but it still trickles a bit. I have it sitting in a bucket now just in case. I tried to tighten the others too, but they still kind of trickle. Any ideas?
     
  6. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    Never shut off the waste line going to the drain. It will stop the waste flow but the good water will continue to flow, since the waste is stopped it will concentrate around the membrane and ruin it. Membranes must be flushed at 4:1 constantly when in use.
    Unscrew the sumps (canisters) and apply a very very thin coating of vaseline or food safe silicone grease on the o-rings then screw them back on. If its hreaded fittings get a roll of the heavy teflon tape made for natural gas and propane lines (found at HD or Lowes and usually pink or yellow in color) and give the fittings a single wrap or two at most.
    If its 1/4" plastic lines leaking, if you have John Guest push in style fittings, remove the line, cut it square and reinsert it all the way in tightly. If its compression style lines, again check the ends then finger tighten securely.
     
  7. JustOneMore23

    JustOneMore23 Astrea Snail

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    Thanks.

    I can't shut the waste line off, just the input water line. I ended up screwing in the valve on the saddle (to off) and also closing the john guest valve to off (it is inline with my input tubing).

    It is my canisters that are leaking a little bit. I will try the vaseline. Thanks for the tip!