Reef tank

Thank you!!!!! That anenome is small now, but it will grow and you will eventually need to move it into a bigger tank. Otherwise it will move around and sting the $%^% out of the corals.

Wow, I had no idea......and I was thinking about fragging my zoas. I have a huge (by my standards) rock that needs to be divided up. Thanks for the post (warning).

You should only have one, maybe two fish in there IMO. You are still overstocked. They will start competing for oxygen....it's not just a waste issue. I am going to say when here, because it is obvious that you are hooked and there is no return (this is a good thing). If you want to move to the 15g, cool. It will give you a bit more room to move around in. I was about to ixnay the idea until I realized it was not a 15g tall. I have one of those. Not the best set up.

Now, there is something I want you to do. Look around the forums at what we other members have. Look at Packleader's 46g. Look at my 90g. Look at KOgle's (is it a 180?). There are all shapes and sizes here. There are budget models and there are top of the line models. Pay really close attention to the hardware we have and familiarize yourself with all of it. And I mean all of it.

There are also differing requirements that come with the different tanks. For example, skimming and lighting become an issue with the larger tanks. It is possible to spend over $1000 on a lighting system for a 90g tank. Skimmers for the bigger tanks can cost new up to $500 to $600. Now I know you are not going to jump in and spend the thousands of dollars it takes to completely outfit even a medium size tank, but I just don't want you spending your hard earned cash on something that you, essentially, already have and regret it later. These days, money is hard to come by and it doesn't spend like it used to. Just something to think about.....because my friend, it seems you have reef fever, like every one of us here.

It is safe if you clean it out with a good soap (someone else is going to have to chime in as to what kind) and rinse, rinse, rinse. You do not want any soap residue at all when you transfer your livestock. If you decide to do it, we can go over the proper procedure of transferring a tank. It will be easy with that size. You will be able to keep five to six inches of fish and pretty much as much coral as you want. That anenome will outgrow the tank at somepoint though. Get ready for that.

 

Also, move your coral rock about halfway up the tank. Get it closer to the lights. The Xenia will like you for it. Xenia also likes a dKH of around 12. Keep that in mind. If you do not have a test kit for it yet, it is time. The test kits you should have, in case it was not covered, are NH4, NO2, NO3, pH....and now that you have corals (congrats by the way), ALK, Ca, Mg and PO4. Salifert is one of the best brands out there. That is what I would recommend. Elos is great also. They are not cheap.

It may also take a few days for your new inhabitants to get used to their new environment. I got a pagoda cup that took two solid weeks to get used to my tank.

 

please respond asap. does me xenia need liquid food that i put in the tank? ive heard that they are just filter feeders and i also heard that they survive the best in bad conditioned water and if you have good water, it will pretty much look like its dead. is this true? and should i buy this liquid food (the stuff in the bottle. i think the brand is kent or something)?

thanks,
ryan

 

Pulsating Xenia

Read that. Xenia are photosynthetic. Try a google on care for those kinds of questions your gonna get the same answer faster there.

 

still overstocked... 3 fish in a ten gallon, all that get 3+ inches... just IMO

 

There are more theories about what xenia feed on as there are about what came first the chicken or the egg , Looks like xenia but hard to tell as they are about melted down and I doubt they will make any come backs . I would look at more lighting for that anemone its looking very weak and from the looks of the rock work the Ca Dkh and Mag levels are low and the No3's and PO4's may be a tad high in the system ..

 

as far as the 15 gallon tall, some tanks are not meant to hold water over a certain level and could crack under the pressure...

Also tall tanks are not as good for current, lighting or swimming space as that of a 15 gallon long.... Go fork out $30 and get you a tank that can actually hold the fish you want and have without mass suffication (not in a literal sense)

 

ok tangster.... can u please tell me how to get those levels higher? its not really any help if you dont tell me haha. and are you saying the xenia is just about dead and wont survive? cause i want to let you know that that pic was when i first put it in to the tank and i moved it up more too. and how you about to tell me that anemone doesnt look too good? tangster and other people please comment on this and what he said.

A.S.A.P.

 

Do you have the Calcium,Dkh,Magnesium,Nitrate and phosphate test kits ?
Calcium chloride , Kalkwasser or a marine reef Buffer and some Epsom salts and as for the NO3's and PO4's then the Po4 can be bound up with a aluminum or iron oxide agent the No3 there are also polymers and reactors to deal with them also..

The Xenia looks bad I have seen them come back from far worse but not often.. they demand perfect water parameters High Ca and Dkh and no NO3 and Po4's . The Long Tentacle anemone looks very translucent and it should be white like milk almost
When was the last ammonia and NO2 test ran on this system and how long has it been up running ? What are the lighting values and type ?

 

ok. it has been running for 9 months and with a 30 gal. filter with 2 cartriges in it (boi-wheel). i have 2 light fixtures each houses 26 watts.

now my question to you... i have a product called coral buff. is it the same thing as what you said "reef buffer". and it is a condy anemone. i think its in perfect shape. but if i put the coral buff in, can i do that instead of buying iodine?

thanks,
ryan