R.O. Noob Question

Ok so I found the 21 pcs replacement cartridges on ebay for a really good price too. So I'll hopefully get to order those within the next 11hours. If not, I'm sure it would become available soon again.

 

As you've surely heard time and time again on this site: you get what you pay for. For about $150, you can get a 5 stage system from one of the 3reef sponsors like airwaterice.com, for example. From what I've read, the less expensive RO/DI units are prone to problems with leaking, or their filters are of lesser quality, or need more frequent changing b/c they're not of the optimum micron capable filtering size. The list is probably longer, but with my limited knowledge regarding RO/DI units, I only know mine was $150 or thereabouts, and only after 14 months have I changed the prefilter sets out. The set of 4 filters (one of which is DI resin) cost $39 from the same manufacturer from whom I purchased the unit. I also know that units with vertical DI chambers are far less prone to channeling--a problem that causes the water to not flow through all the media. Indeed, you get what you pay for.

Personally, I wouldn't risk an off-name RO/DI unit. I don't know that Pure Water Club is in fact "off name," but I don't know that particular company well enough in the circle of company names with whom I've become familiar since I went reef. If I'm not mistaken (and I could be)Luna has a unit from Pure Water Club, and I think he's happy with it.

I just hear too many stories about "man, I should have bought a little more expensive unit and I wouldn't have the issues I'm having now. . " too many times to warrant saving $30 or $40. It seems that cheap lights cause fires, cheap protein skimmers do nothing at all, and cheap RO/DI units don't produce the product water we're looking for.

Maybe AZDesertRat will chime in. He knows RO/DI in and out.

In the end of course, it's your decision--you have to decide if peace of mind is worth another $40, or if the savings is most important.

Whatever you decide, I hope you get a good product.

Good luck, Siddique!

 

Thank you for your reply,
I completely understand what you are saying. I would absolutely love to have top of the line equipment but as a student with a weekend job at the LFS, I can't afford much luxuries. Which is why I started my own marine business which helps a little. I am only now able to buy my chiller but again, not a brand name chiller. I know that it will be better in the long run for me to save and purchase the more reputable brand name equipment. But right now, I need what I can afford and then later down the road when I finish my degree and begin my 8-4, I plan to sell out all my old equipment through my business and then purchase the better stuff in the near future.
If I wasn't also buying my chiller at the same time, I would have definately gone with the better brand unit.
Thanks for the info though

 

A storage tank isn't used only for drinking water, that is not true. My RO/DI system is used only for my aquariums and never used for drinking water. The storage tank basically serves as an immediate source for 4 gallons of water. It's ready to go when it's been filled. Without the storage tank, it will take about 30mins for your RO System to produce 4 gallons. Personally, I would rather have the water there when I need it and not have to wait for it to crank out the water.

 

I tried replying this morning but this forum was messed up and i could not get on for hours, same thing a few days ago!




You get what you pay for with RO/DI systems, cheap is often just that.

Don't let buzz words like "STAGES" intimidate you and don't shop by price alone. For a good reef quality RO/DI system you want and need 4 stages, thats it no more no less. For RO only you need 3 stages, don't let 5 ,6 or 7 stages impress you. Thats exactly what the ebay vendors are trying to do, pass off a low quality system by making inflated claims and using buzz words to make them sound like the best thing since sliced bread.

What you DO want to look for are:
1. A high quality low micron prefilter, prefferably 1 micron or less and an absolute rated prefilter is better than a nominal rated prefilter.

2. A single low micron carbon block like the 20,000 gallon Matrikx+1 Chlorine Guzzler from KX in the 0.6 micron size. No granular carbons and no high micron or un stated micron carbon blocks. One good block is all you need and it will last longer, treat better and provide less pressure drop than multiple carbons.

3. A 75 GPD name brand RO membrane like the Dow Filmtec TW-1812-75. DO NOT buy a unit with a 100 GPD Dow Filmtec, even though it is the same brand it is the worst possible choice. The Dow 100 is a nano filter rated at only 90% removal vs the Dow 75 at 98% removal. A GE Water or Applied Membranes 100 is equal to the 75 GPD Dow in almost every way. GE and Applied say 100 GPD at 65 psi. Dow says 75 GPD at only 50 psi. All three of them produce 75 GPD at 50 psi, 90 GPd at 60 psi and 100 GPD at 65 psi, same difference just a different way of advertising. Mos tof us don't have 65 psi at the tap so Dow is the most honest.

4. A full sized vertical 10" canister style DI filter not the little horizontal hollow tubes some call a DI. The vertical holds 20 oz of resin, is refillable and has an engineered bottom up flow pattern so all resin and water come into contact with each other. The little horizontals hold 6-9 oz of resin and short circuit of channel so not all resin comes into contact with the water. Big difference whan it comes to water quality and resin life.

5. Other things to consider are a hand held TDS meter, an inline pressure gauge and a DI bypass valve. Without the TDS meter you have no idea how well your unit is working and if your DI or membrane are in need of service or replacement. The pressure gauge also is a troubleshooting tool to help determine unit condition. The bypass valve allows you to use RO only water for drinking or other uses.

4 stages, 1 micron prefilter, 0.6 micron carbon block, 75 GPD RO membrane and vertical refillable DI, thats it.

Pressure tanks are not a good idea for storing RO/DI water for reef use. They contribute to TDS creep unless you can completely evacuate the tank at least once a week and prevent cycling on and off frequently which is where TDS creep comes into play. A vessel like a Brute trashcan is a better choice especially if you ca nset it up with float switches set some distance apart for less frequent but long filter runs for best quality.

 

Thank you for the reply AZDesertRat.
Very in depth and precise. Now I have a better understanding of RO/DI filters.
I may hold off on the unit for now till I find a better system that fits the 4 stages, 1 micron prefilter, 0.6 micron carbon block, 75 GPD RO membrane and vertical refillable DI criteria.
Any Ideas / links so that I can get a rough idea of the prices.
Thanks

 

I think the best value in a reef quality RO/DI today is the 75 GPD premium from Buckeye Field Supply. At $169 it can't be beat considering it comes with a 1 micron prefilter, 0.6 micron carbon block, 75 GPD Dow Filmtec RO membrane, fullo size refillable vertical DI, DI bypass valve, flush kit, inline pressure gauge, handheld TDS-3 TDS meter, and more. I haven't seen anything comparable for less than $199-$219.

 

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