Plumbing Advice for Sump Build This Weekend

I was hoping that someone could take a look over my plumbing plan and let me know if you see are any issues. This will be my first sump, but I've done a lot of research.

I have a double prefilter box with two 1" outlets. I want to have two 1" unions following the overflow box, so I was going to have two 1" female adapters (FPT x Slip) and then the two unions.

After the unions, one overflow pipe (1", sch 40) will go to the left side of the sump (skimmer), and the other will go to the right (refugium). The return (Mag 7) is in the middle. Connected to the pump will be a 1/2 FPT x 3/8 Inch Barb, and from the barb I will run some type of flexible tubing (any suggestions?) back to the tank, where I will hopefully have one of those directional u-tubes.

So, does anyone see any problems with this design? The only concern I can think of, is removing the flex tube from the return pump for cleanings... I wasn't able to find any type of union for tubing, and I'm not sure if those barb fittings are permanent. Also, how do you go about ensuring a water tight seal for the barbs?

Based on what I think I need, my shopping list is:
(2) 45d elbows
(2) 90d elbows
(2) 1" FPT x Slip
(1) 1/2 FPT x 3/8 Inch Barb
(2) 1" unions
Sch 40 PVC
Flex PVC
Directional U-Tube (to hang for return)

Thanks for the help.

 

http://www.3reef.com/forums/refugium/sump-fuge-return-pump-plumbing-huh-52988.html

check out that forum on this site.

There are a few pics with how I would recommend doing the clear vinyl tubing return pump. It is cheap enough that for the few times you need to clean it, if it does not come out spotless you can just replace it for a few dollars. Looks like a lot of people are just using the barbed connection with no clamps. If you use clamps be sure to use plastic as even stainless steel (unless it is marine grade stainless steel - Marine grade stainless - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
Other than that - I would also consider LocLine tubing for your returns. You can pick your size, return style and length. Aquacave.com has a lot of this stuff - do not bother with the special locline tool - if you are reasonably strong you can pop them in by hand.

good luck!

 

Based on what I think I need, my shopping list is:
(2) 45d elbows
(2) 90d elbows
(2) 1" FPT x Slip
(1) 1/2 FPT x 3/8 Inch Barb
(2) 1" unions
Sch 40 PVC
Flex PVC
Directional U-Tube (to hang for return)

Thanks for the help.[/QUOTE]

Also - what are the 90's for? You might want to consider replacing the 1" fittings (keep the unions) and install flexible PVC piping instead - you will be able to get rid of most of those fittings and it is very easy to work with along with allowing maximum flow.

 

I was going to have the 90s be right at the end of the overflow, where the sump is. I've seen pictures where people use the 90s to keep part of the pipe out of the water (parallel to the surface). Since I'm running a Mag 7, I don't think I will ever hit the max flow rate of those 1" drains, so I didn't think the 90s would negatively impact the flow.

I know that Home Depot has vinyl tubing, so I was going to buy some colored black, with the hopes of discouraging algae... although, I suppose it would be nice to be able to see any clogs.

You mentioned cleaning the tubing, one thing I can't figure out is whether it is easy to remove the tubing from those barbs. I would assume it wouldn't be too easy, because they do have to stay in place with constant water pressure.

Thanks again for your help.

 

If one of the aquarium returns goes to the refugium side you are going to have some rough waters there. Chaeto doesn't do well in turbulent water flow.

 

I thought that chaeto required high water flow.

Should I go with my original idea of splitting the refugium's return to the skimmer?

 

On your return pump, the Mag 7, increase the size of the plumbing to 3/4" all the way. Mag pumps perform much better with oversized plumbing, in fact the manufacturer recommends you do this.
Cutting it down to 3/8" will give you a dribble for flow since the internal diameter of a 3/8" barbed connector is about 1/4". Jumping up to 3/4" will give you a minimum of 1/2 to 5/8" inside diameter and going to 1" would give you a full 3/4", even better. Mag pumps don't handle head or backpressure well so you want as little reduction or restriction as possible.

The Mag 7, has a 1/2" male pipe thread outlet so screw a 1/2" threaded PVC union right on the pump outlet nipple then screw a 1/2" MPT x 3/4" barb nipple to that and slip your 3/4" tubing over that.
Insert Fitting - MPT x Insert

If you cannot find a 1/2"x3/4" barbed nipple locally use a short 1" threaded nipple, a 3/4"x1/2" PVC reducer bushing and a straight 3/4"FPTx3/4" barbed nipple which you can probably find at any hardware store or LFS.

Whatever you do keep the inside diameter as big as you can to cut down on head loss.

When you get up to the display keep the return line as close to the surface as possible so you do not siphon too much back to the sump in a power outage or when you shut the pump off. I keep my returns 3/4" under the water and only siphon about 3 gallons back to my sump. Some will suggest drilling holes in the return or adding check valves but both are prone to failure and require regular cleaning and maintenance. An air gap like I suggest does not need any maintenance or cleaning and cannot fail ever, water cannot jump up once the return is exposed to atmosphere.

 

Thanks. I meant to put 3/4".

I was going to go with one of these: Aquarium Plumbing: Directional U-Tube
and try to get it as close to the surface as possible, and maybe drill a few small holes in it as well.

 

Those work OK but skip the drilled holes and just keep it close to the surface. Drilled holes are an afterthought and a way to prop up a poorly thought out system after a flood. Really no need as long as you take the time to do it right the first time.
My motto is, " If its worth doing, its worth doing right the first time." That way you never have to go back and redo work. I spent almost a year researching, buying the right stuff and building my present 100G system before it ever had water in it and now after 7 years in operation I can say it was worth it. Never once has it flooded or broken down except for two stupid Quiet One pumps going up in flames which were replaced with Ocean Runners and a Mag 2 burning out on the calcium reactor which got replaced by a Hydor seltz.

 

Well, I got everything set up and started it up. I noticed that my tuxedo urchin started acting funny. He dropped all of the things he was carrying and wasn't moving as much as usual. I also noticed that my two ocellaris's were staying at the bottom of the tank.

Two days ago the urchin died... so, I took the sump offline and am just running my tank. The fish still aren't acting completely normal, but they are moving about more.

Does anyone know why my tank would start to die after installing a sump? I made sure the salinity and temperature were matched up, so I'm not sure what would cause this.

I'm not sure if this is related, but I also noticed another brown diatom bloom after installing the sump.