New RO Membrane Releasing 111 PPM!

Discussion in 'Filters, Pumps, etc..' started by pagewwiv, Oct 1, 2011.

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  1. pagewwiv

    pagewwiv Plankton

    Joined:
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    Horicon, WI
    Hello,

    Five Stage Plus RO/DI from bulk reef supply. PSI post last block and pre-membrane is 70 PSI. Tap is 195. Post membrane is 111. DI and final product is 6 ppm TDS. What can I do to make my membrane more effective?


    Thank you,

    Wiley
    Horicon WI
     
  2. Click Here!

  3. coylee_17

    coylee_17 Fire Goby

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    I ran into a simlalr problem with my 5 stage when I replaced the membrane and filters. It eventually worked itself out with lots of back flushing but was a real pain in the rear. And I think it took out my new DI resin. AZdesertrat was a huge help with me in getting mine up and going, you could try shooting him a PM and see what he has to say.
     
  4. 2in10

    2in10 Super Moderator

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    Contact BRS they will help you out.
     
  5. pagewwiv

    pagewwiv Plankton

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    @2In10,
    Thank you. I sent an email to BRS Customer Service and am awaiting a reply.

    @coylee 17,
    I've seen AZdesertrats replys. Very helpful member. Thank you.


    Wiley
    Horicon, WI
     
  6. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    Did you disconnect the DI and flush the first 3 to 5 gallons of RO to waste before using any of it?

    Its possible the membrane is not seated all the way in the housing and water is bypassing the membrane. Take some photos or mark the 1/4 lines clearly then unscrew the cap off the end of the RO membrane housing, remove the membrane from the housing and closely inspect the O-rings and sealing surfaces then reinsert the membrane back into the housing all the way. It goes in further than you think and may take a little force to get it all the way in. A very very thin film of silicone grease on the O-rings and seals makes it go in easier.

    It is common for a membrane to shift in shipping or to not be inserted all the way when it was assembled. It may also be you just have a bad membrane, it happens since most vendors do not test their systems before shipping.
     
  7. pagewwiv

    pagewwiv Plankton

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    Hello AZDesertRat,

    The unit came assembled with a flush kit. My concern with the flush kit is that whether it was opened our close (to route through the restrictor) the flow seemed to be at the same rate. That being said, yes and no. I did "flush" the membrane using the attached flush kit however, one hour produced only a gallon and a half and the DI canister and resin were attached to the RO unit.
    I'm away from home now but will definitely check the membrane when I get home. It seems I may have saturated the DI resin with contaminants because the membrane wasn't seated properly and doing the first flush with the DI canister attached? Its that correct? Thank you. Thank you.


    Wiley
    Horicon WI
     
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  9. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    Flush kits are a waste of money and really do nothing other than lighten your wallet and give you a warm fuzzy feeling. Notice most long time RO/DI vendors don't use them on their units?
    The only flushing a RO membrane needs is to maintain the time proven 4:1 waste ratio once you have done the initial flush to waste.

    Here is the proper way to flush a new system at the bottom of this thread:

    Nano-Reef.com Forums > RO/DI Water Slow?
     
  10. pagewwiv

    pagewwiv Plankton

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    Hello AZDesertRat,

    My intentions are to flush each stage independently as suggested. I'll keep you posted. Thank you so much for your help again.


    Wiley
     
  11. pagewwiv

    pagewwiv Plankton

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    Hello AZDesertRat,

    Stages one, two, and three were plumbed tight against one another so I wasn't able to flush each canister independently. I did however disconnect post stage 3, pre-membrane and ran it full blast for about four gallons. I also am regulating the psi pre-membrane from 55 -60psi (down from seventy) the combined results: Tap water 185, Pre-DI 115ppm (down from 130,} Post DI 007ppm. I haven't checked the seating of the membrane yet. I will do that today. Any other suggestions given these results?


    Thanks,

    Wiley
    Horicon, WI
     
  12. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    To flush the filters individually, you remove all filters and install just the first sediment filter and screw the other housings back on empty. Flush the sediment alone for several minutes, then install the carbon block in the next housing and do the same and so on.

    Never restrict the pressure going to the RO membrane, the more the better. membranes are designed to operate at up to 150 psi and above and actually are much more efficient at higher pressures. I run mine at 100 psi with a booster pump to get better and more water.

    You have either an unseated membrane like suggested before, a bad membrane which happens or a bad/cracked RO housing that is bypassing the membrane. What kind of GPD are you getting out of the RO/DI right now? This could help identify the problem.