My 125 build thread....

While you've got it in this stage, (If I had my 125 at this stage), you could look into a coast to coast overflow, or a long one anyway.
I don't have a link right now, but I have seen a real nice build thread of cutting the top of the back off for a long length as the overflow, and mounting the overflow box with failsafes under it on the back (Instead of having the box inside and drilling the back) near the top. The returns from that box ran down the back like any other non bottom drilled tank. It was awesome.

PS- check out my DIY design of my 'intank overflow, with DIY HOB overflow, and DIY sump near the end of my 3 min. DT video

 

I agree, the coast-to-coast would be a great idea. I would love to do that to my next tank!

 

Going to check it out - thanks!!

 

Hey Todd, I found the DIY for your overflow but couldnt find the one on the specifics of how it works and how to build it.

Also on the coast to coast, does anyone have a link on how they work, examples, etc - having trouble with finding the specific info for it

Thanks everyone.. tonight we seal the tank!
Tom

 

Memphis,

You mean my DIY surface skimming, high flow, intank overflow with DIY HOB overflow that NEVER looses it's siphon?
If you interested in my setup PM me, I'll tell you all about it, my previous trials, etc. I did it this way to mazimize things on an already full running DT with livestock, etc.
Building mine is Cheap $-wise, and EASY!
If you want to go that route-PM me, but drill, or even better, but out the top of your tank!

YOu on the otherhand can easily drill, or 'cut out' the top of your tank at this stage.
The term coast to coast simply means a very wide overflow box.
The method I was referring to (and will do if/when I set up another tank)
is have the top of the tank cut out for most of the length of the tank, them simply build a box on the outside (instead of the inside).
This maximizes space, and is a gravity fed system, not a 'siphon' system like mine.
The box is usually built out of plexiglass, or acryllic (inside usually, but at your stage, you can cut out the top of the back and put the box on the outside! then drill some 1-1&1/2 inch bulkheads (holes) in the bottom for the return lines to your sump.

 

I Think this is the post, on this webpage, post #9- check out that link!

I can't see it due to I'm banned over at panzycentral!

Let me know if this is the c to c bout out thread I'm referring to!

 

You could remove the two support boards on the bottom and save 5.5 inches of height in your stand. My stand was built with smaller dimensional lumber than the 2x6 you used and it is fine. I am sure yours is already plenty strong enough.

 

If/when I build my next stand, it's going to be TALLER! Probably about 6 inches higher.

MOre room under it and the DT is more at adult eye level.

 

Thanks - Ive been thinking about tanking off the bottom 2x6's and replacing with some 2x4 just to tie it together, also could remove the 2x6 center bottom cross pieces and just set it inside it direct on floor also. Stand is pretty beefy and we are still going to overlay add a decorative top to it we are making also...

Hmm, never thought about cutting a section of tank out - is that a home project or would I need to take it into a glass shop, sounds interesting though. Im curious as to flow rates/size I would need to cut out and box size as well....
Tom

 

Hey Hinged - how tall is your stand?
Thanks
Tom