metal halide burn out need electrical help!!

so i get a call saying that my tank light is smoking and filling the house. well my 150w MH was the problem. i rush from work and take the light apart, what do i find but a metal retaining ring for the LED touching both connections on the capacitor. when you turn the light on it just blows the house circuit. my question is the ballest blown? is the capacitor blown? or are both blown? should i even bother trying to fix it? its got 2 39w t5 left that work, but that will not be enough for my tank? any suggestions?

 

oooh yeah till i fix the main daylight or get a new light [which i will have to wait on if its ordered online] i was going to run 1 1000k 39w t5 and one actinic. that should be enough to keep a bunch of brains alive. i am kind of worried about my clam [maxima]

 

The capacitor is probably burnt I would replace the whole kit ballast and capacitor because if it is tripping your circuit I would suspect the ballast went as well. Is the capacitor swollen and split anywhere? Be careful and unplug it before working on it those capacitors have been known to hold a charge as well make sure you reinstall everything in the metal enclosure and all connections are capped off securely. I am speaking as an electrician with 15 years in the field. Be careful don't take any shortcuts with that stuff it is too dangerous to fool around with.

 

no the capacitor looks fine, no cuts, sratches, swollenness. it looks fine

 

Got a picture of it? I can help with this thing, I love electronics stuff

 

no, not now. i was at work when i got the call. ran home for a couple of hours to do what i could and i came back to work to think about what i am going to do. i agree with cabby that at least the ballest is shot, possibly the capacitor. but now i dont know if i want to buy a whole new integraded light, retro kit that i will fit into the area where the broke MH is at, or just build a new hood with retro kit of all t5

 

I would be more worried about why the retaining ring came loose. Since your entire fixture is not shot, I would just replace that MH ballast. 150W isn't too expensive, much less than buying a new retrofit. You don't need to buy the mogul or double end clips, those didn't fry, nor have to replace the wiring (well unless they were melted in this episode). So just replacing the ballast would be the easiest, IMHO.
Too bad you are in Monterey, that's far away. Monterey Park is close, or I would offer to give you a hand with rebuilding it.
Sorry about your troubles though, at least you caught it before it caught fire.

 

the clip came out because it not the greatest light, i had taken the other clip out that held the oppistie LED bunch, when i first got the light cause it was a messed up. and the wires are shot for the most part. and a new ballast would run me about $120-150 and thats not inculding the capacitor. and there are retro kits out there for that much so it wouldnt be that much of a difference, plus i was enjoying the idea of getting away from use MH on a 29gal. and thanx for the offer to fix it. what i am thinking is getting a retro kit that will fit into the fixture where all the MH stuff was at. so i would only need to buy a 2x39w and would be running 2 t5s

 

Capacitor could well be shorted to ground ? You have to take a VOM and check it any ohm setting will do touch one probe tip to the Marked lug on top of the Cap and then is its metal to the side of the Cap. it should do nothing if the resistance is there then its a open to ground short. If its a plastic capacitor ? simply touch both lugs on the capacitor the resistance should spike and then drain off to nothing it it does then its good if it keeps showing resistance then its bad. The ballast may show signs or have a burned out smell that also can be ohmed for shorts or open windings As Jim said it well could be both A Cap is about 4.00 if in doubt I'd try that first get the MFU rating from it then match it up..

 

thanx guys. i dont really trust either of the ballast or capacitor. plus i cant find my volt meter. but i found a 24" 2x64w t5 retrokit that will fit into the old hood that has 2x39w actinic t5 which still work. this should be able to keep everything for 6 months or so till the other tank is good to go

my LFS lent me 1000k PC and i am getting a 18k t5 [only 39w t5 bulb i could find in my area] with one 39w actinc t5 should be enough to keep my maxima claim alive till i get my new light next week.