Led q&a

you are right but theres a few other factors, as we have discovered the direct spectrum conversion from mh to led is not the same. Ive also discovered through looking at different spectrographs that using cree cool whites at 8-10k and adding green and red will not give you the spectrum you are looking for. If you look the peak in chlorophyll a and b of a 20k or 14k mh you will see the cree cool white gives a much stronger spectrum a lot higher in the red zone, of above 650nm. From what i have research this is not a good spectrum to focus in on. Adding green and reds to this color will only make the spectrum of 550 and up, also much stronger in the 600nm spectrum and up.

versus looking at a spectrogrpah of a 14k-16k led the spectrum is much much closer to that of a 14k or 20 k mh bulb. The 14k and 20k leds are more blue and less yellowish red. giving a better spectrum than cool white and adding green and red in my opinion. You can add all the colors you want, but if it isn't giving proper levels of the light that corals need, whats the point. It can look colorful to you but it doesn't mean thats the natural color of the coral reflecting its natural luminence.

And lastly you make mention of the 170 lumens per watt. That is important in architectural lighting applications and automotive and other factors. For aquariums, WHen i see every user running their whites at 50% and under, who cares how efficient it is, You are already getting much less by dimming it so much. May as well use a lower powered led at 70-100%. To me that would be efficient... no?

I would love nothing more for you to prove me wrong, im a big led believer, But In my opinion of working with leds for years and using them in my aquarium for almost 2 now. Ive gone back to mh and loved it. Im trying a new led fixture that uses mostly 14k and 20k leds for the white and have noticed 100 times a difference versus using the cree cool whites. But still not as good growth as my 250w ushio 20k.

 

The reds and greens are for colors. All of the charts you look at are for growth. 7500k cool whites have a huge 480nm spike, which hits the nail on the head with the chlorophyll b growth spike. 450nm royal blues hit the chlorophyll a growth, about halfway down the peak. 420nm violets help supplement this, and the reds, cree reds that is, are at 620-630nm, which hits the other chlorophyll b spike, while 660 nm reds hit the chlorophyll a growth spike. 14k whites will wash out LED colors, and make them pastel. 2 years is a long time in the world of LEDs, so you likely had an old series of LEDs. As for efficency, yes it does matter, so what if you run them lower? the lower you run them the MORE efficient they are. By running them lower you use even less power.

 

Which LED's did you use? if you have been using the same fixture for 2 years you don't have the right product. I haven;t seen anyone use the right LED's EVER switch back. It might of happened, but on the forums i belong to no one has brought it up.

P.S. I love that Sanjay- who tested LED's prior to a lot of what we have now/know now- is the first and only real argument that pops up.

 

Hi, brand new here. Hope I'm posting correctly. If not ooops!!
I'm a newbie in the Salt water hobby. About two years. I have a 65 gal. I am having a problem of garnering sufficient data in my grey matter area concerning lighting. Read Dingo's threads and I realized I'm more stupider than I thought. My question is I have a 65 gal I want to switch to leds but I will transfer the led to a 180 gal in about a year. I would like to know the differences between these lights?

!. EVO 150 watt dimmable
30-460nm blue
20-450blue
25-14000 white
2watt led

2. 2)cree dimmable model xpg r5/xpe=250mh
12-white creexpg r5
12-blue creexpe 455~465 royal blues
72watt
3. svc cree 60watt
10-3watt royal blues
10-3watt white
Thanks Tom

Oh!Oh! I don't think I did this right. It was suppose to be a new post. Can't seem to find where one is suppose to click to start a post. Could a mod please put this post as a new thread. Thanks

 

nvm, I dont care enough to argue. Just wanted some answers but oh well.

 

Why did you edit what you said? Basically, you said that ThatGrimGuys tank was the nicest LED tank you ever saw, but said that it did not count, because he put a lot of money into his LEDs. Also note that both systems you mentioned were using full spectrum LEDs, which defeats both of your points. What about the 420nm violets? Greens and reds just supplement a little color, as do the 420nm violets, which you had nothing to say about. I am sorry, but I do not think you have a very good case. I apologize for going off on you a little, but I never intended for this to be a debate. You gave me a fight, and I gave it right back. I started a thread for debate, you can continue this there if you choose.

 

I would not go with either fixture, something with a little more spectrum, like the ai vega or radion would be better. You will want to supplement the reds, greens, blues, and 420nm violets in addition to whites/royal blues.

 

Here' one for the haters, these pics were taken under a $200 "eBay" fixture, with full spectrum LEDs.

 

i have a 20L/18w/24d tank that i want to make a coral tank. i want to do a diy led and i just want to make sure i build a light that will be good enough for any coral i get can you give me any ideas

 

The OP sounds a lot like the Orphek rep that was let go because he ripped everything that was not made by himself.

LEDs have come a long way since they entered this hobby and are now competing very well with MH/T5. I was one of the first on here to go LED over 2 years ago. Love the lights. Started with Ecoxotics, then CREE's, Bridgleux, Edison, BoostLED (rebranded Chinese "ebay" fixtures if you will). I've had Par38's, AI Sols, and EcoTech Radion fixtures. I think LEDs are a great light to use over a reef tank, if set up properly. The "full spectrum" is not there yet...but I have no doubt that it will get there soon.