Getting ready to set up my tank again (tips?)

I disassembled my tank about a year ago due to a leak. I resealed the tank and am looking to cycle my tank again. Now, I will admit that I was impatient when I set up my tank the first time. I don't think I let it cycle completely and I ultimately had an algae problem because of it. I am looking to set this tank up and let it cycle completely.

I made the mistake (out of laziness) of using tap water to fill my tank. The main reason for that was due to the leak. I was losing a couple of inches of water a week (I assumed due to evaporation) and didn't have the time or means to buy RO water for water additions/changes. I'm sure the constant fluctuations in salinity didn't promote a suitable ecosystem either.

I'll begin by asking this question: if I let my tank cycle completely and do scheduled water changes with RO water, will I have a nitrate problem in a 20 gallon tank without a sump or refugium (I have a standard activated-carbon filter)? I had a relatively healthy system with massive amounts of coralline, green star coral, a clown and a cleaner shrimp my first go around. I started that system with tap water by the way. The reason I ask is because I had a lot of red algae in my tank and I am sure if that was typical of most tanks.

Will starting the tank with RO water possibly eliminate a nitrate problem as long as I do schedule water changes, scheduled filter changes and the addition of a de-nitrate?

Lastly, I'm going to use the 20-25 pounds of rock (formerly live) that I kept from my previous setup. Will my tank cycle simply by adding live sand and no live rock?

 

it will start to cycle with a newer batch of live sand. Your live rock will no longer be live... Bacteria will start to grow on it, but those coll critters that come in 'live rock' won't be there.

 

I thought of an idea, I just don't know if it is a logical one or not. After a bit of time cycling, I might trade in a piece of my rock for a piece of live rock, assuming the LFS allows me, to seed my current "base rock".

 

Yeah that could work. I would ask and see.

 

Starting with RO/DI water will definitely help in not having problems. You will still need to use RO/DI water for top off and water changes. Good husbandry practices help also.

US EPA clean water rules allow up to 40ppm Nitrate and 4ppm Phosphate in the water.

 

Starting with RO is definitely a step in the right direction. I myself would definitely try to explore more live rock options. I just prefer it over live sand. Live rock you know its coming from a LFS tank, or hopefully quality holding tank or at least somewhere that is it getting fresh or at least moving saltwater. Live sand (if were talking the bagged brand named stuff), is just stuffed in a bag and thrown on a shelf until bought so I would agrue the true effectiveness of it compared to live rock. I know its like apples in oranges, but thats just my take.

Another thing to think about in a smaller tank like that might be the use of some of the decorative macro algaes. Sure they wont keep nitrates at zero but it couldnt hurt.

 

Adding some macro algae would act similarly to how a sump would act, correct?

 

There is no telling what levels my nitrate or phosphate levels are at in my tap water; we have a well system. I have never tested my phosphate levels, but that could be the reason for my algae break out. Now that my tank is sealed, I shouldn't be needing to do top offs to the extent that I was (1-2 times daily), so I shouldn't have a problem picking some up.

 

It's generally the same thing just that the macro's are in the DT. I bought some long & short codium from reefcleaners, and I think it looks great in the DT, it gives a more natural feel to me. Codium's arent gonna work the nitrates like some chaeto & ulva, but every little bit can help.

 

To help deal with nitrates lighter feedings and only a couple of small fish is the place to start. Macros in your DT can work but you gotta get the right ones or they'll take over very quickly. What kind of filter will you be using? An Aquaclear 70 would be good to use for both carbon and GFO. JM2C good luck