DIY tank & stand plans...input wanted!

I'm planning on building a tank (hopefully in a few months!) and would like input from anyone with experience in this area regarding my plans.

Some quick info about my plans:
-6'x3'x2' tank (260 gallons-ish, FOWLR), 3 drilled 1" overflows

-the frame under the tank is made of 2x6 (everything will be waterproof glued and screwed together)

-the rest is 2x4

-planning on using 3/8" glass with 2 braces on top (that I forgot to put in the CAD model :)

-40 breeder for sump, external return pump, probably internal skimmer

-2x250 watt DIY MH pendants (on current tank)

I guess I'm mostly looking for any concerns, or suggestions regarding any improvements and things of that nature...fire away!

 

Might want heavier glass for a greater safety margin.

You will want to add another MH because they are only good for 2 feet by 2 feet.

Welcome to 3reef and good luck

 

Don't mean to still your thread but that is an awesome diagram, wish I could find something like that to help me build a canopy for my 90 gallon oceanic bow front. A set of cad plans like that would definetly take alot of guess work out of it!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Agree on the glass comment above.... I would use 5/8" minimum, 3/4" for a hefty build, and then you could probably get away without a brace, or just a single brace.

If it's within your budget consider a Starphire front panel, about 30% more per panel, and I'm not a huge fan, but I do admit it looks better, if price is no object.... but if price is no object just buy a pre-made tank.... warranty, hassle, time... what are they worth to you?

Also, on the bottom, if you're going to have it drilled, don't go less than 3/4" and ideally 7/8 or 1". Most medium to large cities have a glass shop that can temper glass, look in to that as well (after it's drilled)... it's not too expensive, but make sure they don't warp the glass... ask to see examples of their work, and be up front that it's for a tank and has to be perfect. If they can do it they will, if not they won't.

The stand looks good, make sure to use quality lumber that's not bowed, and make sure it's dry. Kiln dried hard wood is best: poplar, alder, oak... but if you use Home Depot pine studs make sure they're dry and not dripping wet from the middle of a new shipment. As it dries it will often warp, and with 2500+ lbs of tank on top, you don't want it to warp on you. If you're not a carpenter consider working with one... or have it made of steel.


And what CAD software did you use?

-Doug

 

Oh, and on the MH lighting.... you usually want 1 lamp per 2' of length as stated... but I've found the Lumenmax reflectors can be placed higher up and give a little more coverage... less light over all, but more even coverage for the same number of fixtures.

Either way, you will have PLENTY of light for a FOWLR tank, just don't be surprised when you decide you want corals and have to add that third (and fourth?) light, and the accompanying T5 of VHO fixtures....

 

Man, you are brave building a tank that big!!! As stated above. Definately thicker glass. I have a 6 footer, that someone before me removed the center brace. Even with 1/2" glass by Oceanic. It still bowed quite a bit during a water test. I had to add a 1/2" 16x18 center brace. Just that piece of glass was 80.00. Be careful. I love the plan though. If I were you, I would build the stand, and buy the tank. Good Luck!!!

 

I am by no means an expert, however, I have been doing lot of reading and came across this concern on another's build. In your diagram it looks like you are placing the 2X6 horizontal boards on the outside of the 2X4 supports with the tank resting on the edge of the 2X6 horizontal boards. If this is the case then you are at risk of causing too great of a sheer force on the connectors of the horizontal boards to the vertical boards. I do not remember the term for it but if you notch both boards so they fit together then you would displace the weight over the horizontal support and eliminate the sheering concern.

Now if I mis-interpreted the CAD drawings and you already have this covered then please return to your previously scheduled conversation.

Joe

 

I believe the term is a half-lap or dado joint

 

yes as stated before i would set the top 2x6s on top of the frame and not screwed into the sides of the virtical studs, then you can sheet the whole thing straight down. and yes my tank is only 120 and its 3/8 glass.