Complete Guide to Moving a Fish Tank

Discussion in 'Reef Aquarium Articles and How To's' started by Astrick117, May 29, 2012.

to remove this notice and enjoy 3reef content with less ads. 3reef membership is free.

  1. Astrick117

    Astrick117 Stylophora

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    Messages:
    973
    Location:
    Clifton, NJ
    During a few of my forum discussions, I have come across questions about how to move a fish tank and thought it might be a good idea to write-up a quick guide. This is my first attempt at a "walkthrough" so please bare with me.

    Qualifications: I have moved at least 10 separate aquariums within the past few years, both salt and fresh. Using my "method" I have never had any problems with broken equipment or damaged/ dead inhabitants. Please note that these have been relatively short moves (1-2 hours drive time) and I do not recommend using this method for longer moves.

    If you don't want to read through the entire guide, at least adhere to the following points:
    1. You cannot move a tank that has much weight in it as you can crack the glass or put stress on the joints
    2. You need to ensure that you have a method of transporting inhabitants that will not cause them to get crushed
    3. This is a great time to do a large water change, but you need to have the water prepped before-hand at the new location (proper temp, salinity, etc)
    4. You want to avoid disturbing the substrate bed during your move, unless you are replacing it
    5. Pack and move any non-essential items before starting to take down the tank
    6. Once the inhabitants are out of the tank, you want to try to move as quickly as possible- the tank should be either the first or last thing you move so you can devote all of your attention to it.
    7. Moving a tank will take longer than you expect, so make sure you are not rushed. If you are in a hurry, you take a chance of making a mistake that could jeopardize everything (aka dropping the tank).

    Things you will need:
    • Container for equipment
    • Buckets w/ lids for fish/ invert transport (food safe)
    • Plastic totes/ tub w/ lids for LR and coral transport (rinsed with RODI before use)
    • At least one other person to help with moving the tank/stand- do not attempt to move a tank over 10 gallons by yourself.
    • Battery powered air pump (to keep water oxygenated), power converter and heater (if move will be long)

    Now with those things said let's get to the step-by-step process:
    You want to begin by removing your lights, heaters, powerheads, etc. Place these in a safe container/ out of the way/ in the vehicle you plan to use to move. I have used cardboard boxes with trash bag "liners" before and it works great. You just place the powerhead/heater in the bag then allow the cord to sit in the other part of the box- therefore keeping it dry.

    Next, your best bet is to get buckets for fish/ inverts and a few large tubs w/ lids for live rock/ corals.

    Fill each receptacle with water from the tank first, so that you ensure you have enough for everything. If you have extra you can bring it with you in other containers or dump it, but just make sure

    Once the receptacles are filled, move your inhabitants. Corals and live rock first. Take each rock out and make sure that any corals are facing up and are covered by water. the best way to do this is to build a "puzzle" of interlocking rocks, so they can't shift during transport. A little sloshing is ok, you just don't want the rocks to move and crush your corals

    Then come the fish. Doing corals first then fish, will make them easier to catch when they have nothing to hide behind. Remember the less stress to the inhabitants the better, so try to "gently" catch the fish. Inverts should be included in the same bucket.

    Dependent on the size of the fish/ inverts that you have and their aggression, you can put them in the same bucket or divide them- your call. Aka- you shouldn't put an anemone in small bucket with a large fish that it can sting or a small fish that could easily killed by a larger more aggressive one. Remember less stress equals better success!

    Make sure everything has a lid on it and get ready to move "quickly". You don't need to rush and risk breaking equipment/ the tank, but you want to limit the time that your fish/ coral are in the buckets/ totes.

    Now you will take down the tank. Empty any remaining water down to the substrate. While doing so, try not to disturb the bed. If you do, you risk releasing nitrates/ other "bad stuff" that will then get into the water column when you fill it back up.

    Once the water is removed you have two options and I have heard both sides of the argument. I personally prefer the first.

    You can either remove the substrate or leave it in the tank. If you leave it, it is much easier and there is less chance of releasing "bad stuff", the concern comes in that depending on the weight of the substrate bed, it could stress the tank seals/glass. On the other hand, if you remove it, you don't have to worry about the weight, but it will be a pain to remove and you wouldn't be able to get all of it. I have always left the substrate in the tank, but then again I have never had more than 2" of substrate in my DT's.

    You are now ready to put all of the equipment in your vehicle. You want to make sure everything is packed closely together to limit movement and there should be no corners or edges that could potentially shift and crack your tank. Load all buckets/ totes containing livestock last. This will allow them to be out of the elements for as long as possible.

    Make sure that someone is watching the fish buckets/ LR totes. Do not stack items. Do not place items where they cannot lay flat. Ensure that all doors will close properly and lock. You will thank me when you are going down the highway and you don't have to go back to pick up the pieces of what used to be a $1,000 set-up. :dunce2: If this happens to you please post pictures, so everyone can at least get a good laugh at your expense

    When you arrive, you want to set it back up in the following order:
    1. Tank/ Stand (Make sure it is where you want it and on a level surface)
    2. Substrate
    3. 1/2 of Water (pour on plate slowly to avoid stirring substrate)
    4. Other Equipment (heaters, filters, powerheads, etc- not plugged in)
    5. LR without any corals attached
    6. LR with corals
    7. Remaining water
    8. Fish/ Inverts
    9. Additional new saltwater (if needed)
    10. Start up equipment

    Your tank will be cloudy and most of your livestock will be stressed at this point. I recommend keeping your lights off for 24 hours to reduce stress and allow everything to settle. Also, do not feed for 24 hours unless absolutely necessary. Stressed livestock create more waste and could lead to an ammonia spike. :eek:

    Monitor your water params daily for the next week or so. You may see a mini cycle that you should be able to control with water changes.


    AND...YOU'RE DONE! You have successfully completed your mission of moving a fish tank. Grab a beer or 2 and relax...


    PS- I would greatly appreciate any and all feedback, as I am sure I have overlooked something.::)
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013
    9 people like this.
  2. Click Here!

  3. vankirk

    vankirk Sea Dragon

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2009
    Messages:
    537
    Thanks for this write up, I'm sure it will help a lot of people. K+ to ya!
     
  4. Mr. Bill

    Mr. Bill Native Floridian

    Joined:
    May 28, 2011
    Messages:
    4,874
    Location:
    USA
    Excellent guide. This should be a sticky somewhere.
     
  5. Astrick117

    Astrick117 Stylophora

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    Messages:
    973
    Location:
    Clifton, NJ
    Thanks! I'm glad I could finally contribute something of actual value;D
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. Vinnyboombatz

    Vinnyboombatz Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2010
    Messages:
    6,344
    Location:
    Dunnellon, Florida
    Great write up although I will point out keeping as much of the old water is not really necessary. Almost all of the bacteria colonies needed live on surfaces and not in the water column.If you don't want to make up alot of new SW on startup thats one thing but using old water will do nothing to help keep the new setup from cycling and its best to get rid of as much old water as possible especially if it is removed after disturbing the LR.;)
     
  7. SnooknRedz

    SnooknRedz Vlamingii Tang

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2010
    Messages:
    1,869
    Location:
    Melbourne FL
    Astrick117, let me start off first by saying nice write up my man, well done. I think almost every reefer, at one time or another, will have to move a tank. Good info. One point id like to say is its ALWAYS a good idea to have a battery powered airator. Ive had one before reefing, i use to keep bait alive when i fish. Shrimp,mullet,Pinfish, etc. Makes the fish nice and healthy, during such a shocking time. and comes with an airstone. There like 15-20 bux. Its silent![​IMG]

    Vin, great point! Just look at this move as making a big water change to the system, almost 75-80%, and a re aquascpae lol. Old water just makes more to haul imo.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Click Here!

  9. Vinnyboombatz

    Vinnyboombatz Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2010
    Messages:
    6,344
    Location:
    Dunnellon, Florida
    Thanks man!! Battery powered air pumps are definitely a must but for people who are making longer moves I would suggest a good inverter as well. You can then plug your powerheads or heaters right into the cigarette lighter of your vehicle.;)
    Also agree that moving a tank is a great time for a massive WC!! As far as removing the substrate IME if its a local move then keeping it in the tank is fine but be aware it is easier to do damage to the tank this way.For someone moving long distance IMO it is better to remove the substrate and replace it otherwise you will need to leave some water in the tank and keep it aerated so the SB does not foul.
     
  10. SnooknRedz

    SnooknRedz Vlamingii Tang

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2010
    Messages:
    1,869
    Location:
    Melbourne FL
    Your a genius. I have one i use for my laptop, never woulda guess it would be used with a heater or koralia. lol very handy. might as well just hook up a media reactor in the back of the truck. or tool box.
     
  11. Seano Hermano

    Seano Hermano Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2010
    Messages:
    10,056
    Location:
    Northwest Ohio
    Thanks for the write-up! It was very helpful and is sure to come in handy when I move my tank this summer.
     
  12. zeo

    zeo Bristle Worm

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2012
    Messages:
    128
    Great thread ...thanx +K (D)