Chiller install question.

Was wondering how to install my JBJ 1/10hp chiller for my 125g tank. I initially installed it from my mag7 to the chiller intake then out to a "T" then into the dual returns, but lost almost all pressure.

I was thinking maybe I could chill just one return, so the mag 7 flows into the "T" then I could use just one side for the chiller then into the right side of the tank.

Hope this makes sense. I know I could get a bigger pump, but funds are limited as of right now.

 

Well you don't want to run the water through the chiller too fast because it won't be able to bring the temp down. I take water from the sump and blast it to a manifold then it goes to all reactors, skimmer and I have one port that feeds the chiller then it just dumps into the display. Don't discharge the chiller back into the sump.

Manifold pic

 

Well actually speed of water through the Evaporator barrel really does not matter Like Otty said slower flows will allow for more of the heat molecules to be extracted as the dwell time is longer. But a properly sized chiller will remove the heat also.. at about the same efficiencies Slow lowers the out let say 2 degrees and if you push it faster it may only drop it 1/2 a degree But you remove a 1/2 a degree of several hundred gallons sooner so it's a wash with that. You have to locate the chiller far away from the tank or the extracted heat molecules will flow right back to the cooler water via the warmer ambient surrounding air heated by the extracted molecules of the chiller . Like a big old circle its just keeps going on and on.. Heat has to flow to area of lesser heat thats the rules.

 

I agree with the idea that there should be a slower flow so the chiller has time to extract the heat, but when I connected the chiller, it really really slowed the flow down. It was to the point the sump was filling up faster then the return pump could push the water out. And the main tank did not have enough water in it to fully get efficient skimming out of the overflows. I added water to the sump, but got very dangerously high and decided at this point to disconnect the chiller for now. Should I just connect it to the right side of the "T" connector, so only chilled water goes into the right side of the tank? Hope that makes sense.
Luckily my tank and stand are about 6 inches from the wall and the back of my stand is completely open in the back, so the heat can get out.

 

Slower flows will also blow the compressor out as the head pressure will be increased from the increased heat on the refrigerant's .. What model did you get ? a 1/10 is a small unit.. maybe to small ? We are dealers for JBL and use them exclusively and make a ton of repairs on them as well as other brands you posted a 1/10 HP I got my tech sheets and if its a DBA-075 you have to push about 600 GPH through it they recommend nothing less then 250 GPH and a Max of 950 GPH so unless you get it up to some serious flows the head pressure will overload the compressor ..Once that crank oil heats up and foams its toast.. I relay like the Aticia's by JBL well made . So I'd suggest that you push at least 600 to 800 GPH through that coil.. Like I said earlier its best to drop the temp 1/2 a degree per pass through the barrel rather then to slow the flow and make the heat transfer to much and the lower 3 to 4 degrees drop and raising the head pressure on the compressor.
Oh I'd also forget about the dual return chill stuff just pull the water from the sump and shot it right back into the sump It will eventually cool it all just as a reactor fileters all the water. You are way over thinking the set up..

 

The unit is a Pacific Coasts imports CL-280 with a 1/10hp motor. I bought the unit 2nd hand and am not looking to drop the temperature much...maybe 2-3 degrees during the summer time. I run the AC during the summer, so I just wanted a back-up.

So Tangster, are you suggesting I run a mag-pump from my sump into the chiller, then back into the sump again, and not run it into a return? Thanks for your help!