Vodka Dosing

I've been reading a lot lately about dosing with vodka to lower NO3 and PO4 levels. I currently get no readings from my system with API tests. I was wondering if there is a more sensitive test out there? Also, I have a 7.5g fuge on a 75g system with a remote DSB and chaeto and gracilaria.

Just wondering if I would benefit from it...

 

I assure you it probably isn't zero on a looking at a API...at least for PO4. you need a high resolution kit... Merck or Elos. Anything else will just tell you if you are grossly over.... and you probably would not need a kit to tell you that.

Not sure what the best NO3 kit is...curious myself. don't care much about it, but will look for a better one next time.

Zero on nitrate is not zero production, it just means it is being consumed as fast as it is produced. Micro algae tells you how much nitrates you have.

My cheato grows very little at all, I have no micro algae except a bit of film on the glass. My kits tell me NO3 is < .2 and .008 for PO4. So I doubt I would benefit a whole lot vodka dosing. At least it is not high on the list for me right now.

 

only benefit would be to raise you ORP for a little while while the ethanol is being consumed. helps to get rid of any little stuff in the nooks and crannys.
It will also slighty increase your bacteria population but truthfully, given your conditions, there is no reason as to why you personally need to vodka dose

 

I would not waste any money on a "more accurate" test. The reason for this is that no test will give you accurate readings when your NO3 and PO4 are very low. They will almost all measure zero. This is because the algae in your tank (be it the film algae, or the algae in your fuge, or whatever) consume the nutrients that are being produced, but they are present in your tank nonetheless. They will simply not show up on tests. In any case, if your API test is measuring zero, you can rest assured that your levels are, at the least, low.

Now, your 2nd question is whether you would benefit from vodka dosing. The answer depends on what you want to do with your tank. I am in a similar situation as you with zero measurable nutrients, a fuge, and lots of filtration. And I DO vodka dose. The reason I do so is to enable me to overfeed my tank more safely, to make my fishes and corals more happy. If you vodka dose, the idea is that any unconsumed food will be used up by bacteria rather than algae in your tank. For me, this is a useful tool. However, you need to do it slowly and carefully. There are several threads on RC on the proper regimen to dose, if you choose to do so.

That being said, if you don't intend to overfeed your tank, there is no reason for you to vodka dose at this time.

 

Thanks for all the feedback....I was thinking the same thing about the nutrient levels...that they are there, but are being used by the algae etc. My tank is young, very young. It was established in the 20g for 3 months, then moved over to the 75g with added LR and sand.

I think I will read some more and begin doing it. I do intend on overfeeding, and even if not overfeeding it will take care of "accidental" overfeedings?

I also intend on keeping SPS happy and colorful...

 

That's not really true. I have never had a problem with micro algae. I used a API kit and it was always zero. I wanted to know more and run GFO so I got a Merck kit. My level was .4. Yes it's low, but reef tanks need to be below .02. That is where it inhibits calcification, and algae can still grow at those levels. So I was way over, even though it is "low". After running GFO my levels are now .008 and I have even less film algae on the glass.

 

I'm having trouble finding a Merck kit and Elos doesn't test below 5ppm. I found some Salifert kits which test as low as 0.2ppm. You know where to get one of these Merck kits? And for phosphate too?

 

Well let's put it in perspective... I forget where I ordered the Merck... online, only a couple of places... Google DD-Merck.

Now some complain about high resolution kits that the color difference is still hard to tell.... and it is. The Merck is $80 I would probably not do it again.

I heard the Elos is just as good and some say the color change is better. Just saw a kit at TB Aquatics... $35-$40. I would probably try that next.

Having said all that.... If you want to know cool...but it is not something I obsess on. If you run GFO, then if you follow directions it is safe to say you are very low. But I wanted to know when I should change my GFO and see where it exhausted.... but even with the very high resolution of the Merck, it is still difficult to read on the very low end. It just isn't obvious to tell when the PO4 starts to punch through. If it was and you could test the effluent and run GFO more ecconomically then it would be worth the high price. All I know is that I'm definitely under .02 where I need to be.... and I pretty much follow directions for GFO.....

In fact.... when I run a new batch of GFO, my film algae on the glass really gets knocked down.... I wanted to run smaller batches and change more frequently.... well I'm starting to get pretty good at just judging film algae.... after about 2.5-3 weeks it grows better and I change it out.


I read the Elos is good down to .01.... still lets you know you are half the threshhold.

 

I agree with Powerman.
Get a "low range" PO4 test kit.
I have the Hanna instruments photometer. Unfortunately I bought the expensive one before the small one came out. API, Elos kits aren't going to tell you much about your PO4 levels. The merck test can do if for ya too.
If you can keep it below .04 you will notice better color in your SPS... and without a low range test kit it's kinda hard to tell where it is unless you have some experience with a super stable tank for quite a while. .. then I suppose you could get an idea observing the corals.