will buying a RODI fix my tank?

Discussion in 'New To The Hobby' started by chappy85, Nov 15, 2010.

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  1. chappy85

    chappy85 Coral Banded Shrimp

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2010
    Messages:
    376
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    specs-
    tank is an AquaOne Aqua Start 320.
    its 28L (about 7-8 gal?)
    has a 400Lph powerhead on a spraybay (100gph?)
    and an undergravel filter system (only)
    1 x 11w PL light (no idea what k)
    not sure how much rock, but about 1 bucket of rock to 2 buckets of water when full
    just added an Ehiem 300Lph powerhead

    story-
    i'll post the pics i dont want anyone to see in the hopes that maybe someone else will learn something too for the good of fish everywhere.

    my tank was poorly neglected.
    the fish still seemed happy, but tank looked horribad.

    exhibit A.
    [​IMG]

    had been using the excuse that 'the real tank will be better when I finish it' for too long and, after checking with a LFS that it wouldnt kill the fish, scrubbed the hell out of the rocks and cleaned up the gravel.

    da-daa! pretty again.
    [​IMG]

    as per LFS advice, cut back the light ALOT and put it on a timer.
    grabbed some culerpra to try and take out some phosphates (seems to be dying :confused: light?).
    have been doing more frequent water changes, now doing a bucket a week.

    problem is, the gha is still growing like a champ. so every sunday when i do a water change, i scrub each rock to clean it up again.
    on the upside, i think the coraline might be trying to grow back.

    questions-
    1. will getting an RO/DI and using that instead of conditioned tap water eventually fix my algae nightmare?
    2. are there any problems swapping out conditioned water for RODI water?
    3. is there anything else that could help this tank?
    4. should i add a sponge filter to act as a skimmer/media reactor sort of thing with some anti-phos?
    considering this RODI unit but know very little about them:
    4 Stage RO Unit 400LPD W/ Pressure Gauge
    i know its not spectrapure, but couldnt see any locally.
    planning on adding a dual tds later as im on a strict budget atm.

    as alway, any assistance is very appreciated.
    thanks
     
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  3. Zoanthids21

    Zoanthids21 McKoscker’s Flasher Wrasse

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    RO/DI will fix your algae problem, tap has nitrates in it sometimes and it an be pretty high in some places. And i would get a test kit..API is a cheap and its pretty good. And test your params.
     
  4. APC

    APC Gigas Clam

    Joined:
    May 23, 2005
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    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    I would also invest in a protein skimmer. That should help a lot. Not sure a sponge filter will do you too much good.

    What kind of substrate is that on the bottom of the tank? It looks like gravel in the picture?

    How much do you feed?
     
  5. chappy85

    chappy85 Coral Banded Shrimp

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2010
    Messages:
    376
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    awesome, thanks.

    i did a water change yesterday so this might not be ideal but-
    either i should have shaken the test bottles first or, my nitrates are <5ppm
     
  6. chappy85

    chappy85 Coral Banded Shrimp

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2010
    Messages:
    376
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    could maybe fit a hob skimmer, but would need to ditch the top and would then need a new light.
    was thinking the sponge filter might catch some of the crud getting blown around and i could rinse it each water change?

    the substrate was sold to me a while ago as calcium carbonate. its alot like gravel and not very nice. I imagine sand would get sucked throught the under gravel filter and destroy the powerhead?

    i try to feed only what he can eat, like one pellet at a time. occasionally some will get by him, but not many.

    i know trying to fix this as cheap as possible is bound to get as expected results, but if possible I'd like to spend money on things that can also be used on my larger system when its ready. hence the rodi.
     
  7. Otty

    Otty Giant Squid

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Elizabethtown, IN
    You should always use RO/DI water for salt tanks. Need to get a TDS checker too.
     
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  9. MagikSurfman

    MagikSurfman Plankton

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    San Diego 92124
    im so angry i just wrote you a 3 page writeup on my experiences and some suggestions hit send and everything was deleted because i took so long i was automaticly logged out.

    but to give you the short and dirty(which ended up being not too short)
    i started with a 16gal nano which was almost identical in setup to yours so heres what i learned through experience and 4 tanks later.

    -undergravel filter- works but it has a tendancy to clog or if you end up later getting a pistol shrimp, certain goby or jawfish it can cause your tank to crash and kill all your inverts and maybe eventually... nemo.
    my suggestion
    use a 3 stage power filter hang on back is the best for a small tank and IMO this is all you need for a nano pico tank no fany skimmers necessary (your water changes should be so frequent -weekly-that you shouldnt have to stress out about salinity swings due to evaporation or nitrates ) but it would help if your determined to get one, it would only help in your arsenal against the algea monster. sponge for mechanical filtration in case nemo leaves leftovers, bio pellets to help your nitrates cycle along(but isnt really necessary because thats what your pet rocks and sand are for) and carbon to help out with ammonia/nitrates/toxins in case something decides dissapear and kick to bucket out of sight, raising your nitrates like some sort of zombie ninja which is especially bad in small tanks. and some phosban (kept seperatly of course because of longer use life) to keep your phosphates in check and if your feeling like tearing something not broken apart and making it better you can mod it into a fuge to hold/hide your macro algea which i suggest you dump your caulerpa and get cheato -its neater and has a more controlled grow- maybe on a PIF pay it forward thread.

    -tap water bad- test it for phosphates and nitrates to be sure,this stuff feeds the algea monster, no fancy tds meters needed just regular old liquid test tube kit you get at lfs will do. if theyre high i suggest you try to find a way to get natural sea water i realized you were in australia and not in san diego 2 pages in so scripps pier is not an option for you but if you have a local aquarium i would inquire about getting saltwater from them if not lfs sell rodi water and saltwater, or you can hook up with a local forum member that has an rodi unit and buy water from them at a relatively cheap price,if not creep around the forums for a used one.

    -lighting and feeding reduction are short term solutions to long term problems .... so after you dump your caulerpa and your undergravel filter and snag you a 3 stage filter assuming you follow my advise shut your lights off do a water change and scrub your rock set up the filter and run it a week later do your weelkly 20-40% (i suggest) and turn your lights back on, dont forget to regularly change your carbon every (second to third water change) and phosban (4 to 6 months read your specific media manufacture instructions) and rinse off your (sponge/foam) every water change-and continue building your pico.

    hope this helps- if something sounds wacky i hope someone corrects me i am always wanting to learn more and build on my experience
    i would also like to see any successful Tap tanks out there.

    -experience is the best teacher, but also one of the most expensive so do your homework before you come to class-
     
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  10. MagikSurfman

    MagikSurfman Plankton

    Joined:
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    Location:
    San Diego 92124
    i guess i should check my spelling next time too.
     
  11. chappy85

    chappy85 Coral Banded Shrimp

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2010
    Messages:
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    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    thanks heaps for your input guys.
    especially putting in the effort to write your story twice Magik, a very good read

    it sounds like I will definietely get the rodi, might have to wait another week or so for the tds meter, but can I assume that any rodi water is better than tap water? will use the API salt kit i have and test for nitrates etc to start with.

    I'll look into getting the 3 stage filter, however it also might have to wait a coupld of weeks. with luck i'll be able the cut a hole in the back of the hood to make room for it. not sure how much room will be left for a fuge after that but i guess i'll have something to get creative about later :)
     
  12. iams447

    iams447 Plankton

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2010
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    How much do u change u should be able to buy ro water from ur lfs until u get an ro unit