White areas on some SPS

So after adding my new corals, the SPS have developed these spots. I am not sure what is going on with them and need to know if there is something I can do to help them.


I have never seen any of my sps do this. The flesh is not gone and you can still see the polyps on the white portions but they are not as extended as the non effected part.

I have had no swings in any parameter
Mag 1410
Cal 440
Alk 9.6
Salinity 1.026
Temp 79
phos undetectable
No3 undetectable

these values have been stable for quite some time

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated

 

I just had a thought, I dipped all these at the same time and they were in the container together. Is it possible they were "stung" by zoanthids? I know zoas don't really sting much but they do have some coral warfare device don't they? I am just throwing out possibilities and don't know how dumb they might be. I am just concerned with losing these corals.

 

Looks like bleaching or stn. Many factors can cause these symptoms. I know when dipping corals on the bottle of coral rx it says to use new solution everytime due to toxins being released from different corals and the pests the dip removes. I'm not sure if it's what the problem is. I just started having a problem with my sunset montipora but I believe it's related to new chemicals I'm dosing. I actually removed my blue tang because she became extremely destructive and maybe she was chewing on the montipora? Do you have any fish that could be nipping?

 

is strange all of them doing that at once

How long have you had them? How long before you started noticing it?
How is your current on them presently.. I would put it into a high flow area more light area(you have leds and the place you got those from has what for lighting? and how far from the light were the corals?)
Not saying that light or flow is the issue here but you want them to do everything to turn things around and placement may help that.

I do not know if that is a garf bonsai or tri/color but mine starting dulling in color within the first week of getting(never got to the whiting out). I moved it higher and more flow and new growth is deep purple and old growth gaining color again.

Things to check off list.. Some of my thoughts and things I have questioned whenever I see corals whiting, RTN etc etc...

1) Is it possible that whatever you are dosing is getting blown onto the corals?
2) I never feed SPS direct(meaning squirting food on them),I always broadcast. I have seen and experienced coral issues (whiting, corals tissue loss).. not positive why. I think me and you may have had a quick discussion in old thread about this(maybe someone else)
3) Have your LFS double check your numbers for the below. Don't get burned by bad kits like I did
MAG
CAL
ALK
4) Have you done a water change since you put the corals in? Is it possible the water was not same temp as tank(a few degrees colder) and direction of return is blowing right on corals. Really I have no clue what a quick burst of cooler water would do if anything but just something I have wondered about and the reason I only do WC once my water is up to temp.
5) I do not think the zoas would have done that but could be toxin related.
6) when you did you dip did you use newly made SW or did you take some from your tank?
7) Is there any chance there was something(residue) in the container that you did the dip in?

Besides confirming your level and just making sure you are not doing anything out of the ordinary I am not sure you are going to figure out what really caused it

Also might consider another dip in maybe an iodine dip may help turn things around. Some tank water and some iodine. I mix to a light brown color.. some go heavy on the iodine depending on how bad the corals are.

 

All the tissue is intact it has just gone white. My first thought was rtn or stn but it changed like that literally overnight and the white area has not grown in size at all. I had never had a problem dipping multiple frags at the same time but that could be the problem, with this though, the only others being dipped were 3 different zoas which usually don't put up much of a fight. One of the frags I have here is actually a sunset monti. I have 2 mocha clowns which I rarely see on the side of the tank where these frags are and a lawnmower blenny I have never seen touch any other coral but is always possible for one to be nipping.

I picked these up on Sunday and the acclimated them, added coral rx to the container which they were acclimated in and turkey basted them for 15 minutes. I even had the water measured so I would use the correct amount of the coral rx. I then sat them on a rack on the sandbed so they could acclimate to the lighting. Monday is when I first noticed the color change. Right now there is a jebao wp40 about 6 inches directly above them so the current is probably pretty low where they are at. Should I go ahead and start moving them up so they get more light and more flow. I just didn't want to shock them with light. The place I got them from had them under ati Coral plus t5s. they were on the bottom of the tank there when I went to pick them up and were in the car about 25 minutes which I carried them in a igloo cooler so they wouldn't get cold.

The bonsai I am not sure on garf or tricolor, it was listed as purple bonsai, and it actually looks the least effected by the white spots other than the zoas which have nothing wrong with them.

1) I only dose Kalk through my ATO and it goes into my sump. It should be thoroughly mixed by the time it hits my tank and introduced nowhere near the frags so this is probably a low likelihood.
2) I don't remember a conversation about this but I had only broadcast fed up until last night when I directed some toward them but wasn't close enough for the turkey baster to do any damage.
3) All my test kits are good expiration wise, Salifert, and have only had them 2 months at most except for the Mag which is about 6 months. I test calcium and Alk fairly regularly, 2-3 days max, do to me not trusting my ATO kalk delivery, and I get consistent results. The place I bought them from is an online only vendor so I would have to set up a visit with them to have them test my water which I am not even sure they would do and my other LFS only uses API kits so I don't know how much good that would do. I will check all parameters again as soon as I get home and post them again here.
4) I do keep my WC water at tank temp and I have only changed twice 1 gallon each time since I got the frags, and one of those was replacing the acclimation water. WCs are done through my sump so it should mix well before hitting the DT. And again they are not getting directly hit by inflow water.
5) I agree with the zoas being a very unlikely culprit and they are still on the rack next to the bonsai and no increase of white area near them. Probably not the problem but you never know.
6) the dip was done in the acclimation water so mostly water from my system. I don't have a whole lot of experience with dipping so I don't know what is best it just seemed like the best process to go through. should I be using new SW for dipping?
7) The container I used to dip is a 10 gallon tank. It recently had a QT fish in it which died. there was prazipro in the QT. When I broke it down I rinsed it out with tap water, then washed it with bleach solution, filled it with tap water and let it sit for a few days, then cleaned it with vinegar, then rinsed with tap and then rinsed with rodi. I have not had any experience with QTing this being my first attempt and new also to prazipro. So I don't know if the cleaning of the tank was adequate or overkill to ensure there was nothing contaminating it.

I have never iodine dipped either. So I am not sure what it actually does in regards to risk and benefits. I will have to check into this. I did contact the vendor via email and sent pictures, the advice given to me from them was to wait and see how it develops and get back with them with any changes.

It seems this may be what I have to do but I do not take suggestions or advice given to me lightly and will look into anything suggested.

 

I read to use your tank water but not sure if it makes that big of a difference unless your mix was off drastically.
Sounds like you pretty thoroughly cleaned the 10gal.
The white spots were there before you feed them with baster?

Like you said it seems to be a wait and see but if you continue to see the white areas grow I would consider another dip.

 

The white area was there before the food basting but i did use the baster to lightly hit the corals in the dip to see if anything would come loose. I saw this method done in a youtube video from the place i bought the coral.

I looked them over just now and the white area has not grown. So that is something. The polyps are still as extended as they were. The purple Undata is the only one with the white area and no polyps on it, but again, it hasn't gotten any bigger. Maybe something just pissed it off but is not killing them. Here is for hoping.

 

Well it is a positive sign that it has not progressed and better sign the polyps are still extending. Fingers crossed for you.
I am hesitant about blowing anything direct on SPS

 

My 2 colonies of tyree sunset has recently developed white spots and some die off out of the blue. I did an iodine dip so we shall see what happens but it's not looking good. All other corals including my delicate sps are doing great. Sometimes we just don't know what happens to them.

 

Yeah it seems the problem had to have happened in the acclimation dip procedure. I have several other SPS in the tank and there is no problem with the others, just these recently aquired frags.

Still no change in the frags today though. I am hoping they recover but it seems it is not spreading.