Which RO/DI Filters

Discussion in 'Water Chemistry' started by fishboyt, Jul 18, 2011.

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  1. fishboyt

    fishboyt Bristle Worm

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    I have a Water General RD-106 RO/DI filter that is putting out 11 TDS after the DI. I can't figure out what the peoblem is, so I'm going to replace the RO membrane and the prefilters in the unit. So my question: Which RO, sediment, chlorine, and carbon filters are the best, or are they all basically the same? Any combo packs that are really good?
     
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  3. Reefing Madness

    Reefing Madness Skunk Shrimp

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    1 Micron for each of them would do ya. Also, how old is your current RO? and DI? Usually when the DI gets exhausted it turns a different color than when it was new, like new was either green or brown, and now its a different color. Also, what is the PSI of the water going into the RO? Water presseure should be good in order for your RO to produce clean water correctly.
     
  4. fishboyt

    fishboyt Bristle Worm

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    Not sure about the age. I bought the unit from someone a couple months ago, and I think he said they were on the verge of needing replaced. I have a new bag and a used bag of DI resin.

    Water pressure varies between 40psi and 50psi (Our neighborhood is running off a really bad water tank with very low pressure).
     
  5. Reefing Madness

    Reefing Madness Skunk Shrimp

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    Might want to just throw all new in then, being as you have no idea for sure what the age is. Your at the bottom of the best pressure range with 40psi, then ok at 50, so I'm thinkin your on the right track.
     
  6. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    The best by far is Spectrapure. No other vendor or manufacturer uses absolute rated prefilters instead of nominal rated ones, mixes all their own DI resins in house based on tens of thousands of hours testing and treats and tests all their RO membranes for increased efficiency.
    Untitled Document

    $39 for a treated and tested high rejection rate 90 GPD RO membrane with matched capillary tube flow restrictor, $20 for a 1 micron prefilter and carbon block set and $20 for a SilicaBuster DI. Or you could go a step better and for $52 get the 0.5 micron prefilter, 0.5 micron 20,000 gallon chlorine guzzler carbon block and a SilicaBuster DI cartridge which will do a better job of protecting the RO membrane so it lasts longer and works better.

    And for the record, prefilters and carbon blocks have very little to absolutely nothing to do with final TDS or dissolved soids, they are there to protect the RO membrane from sediment, particulates and colloidal materials. The RO membrane along with the DI resin is what gets the TDS which is in the 0.0001 micron range compared to suspended solids in the 1 micron and larger range.

    To know how your system is really working you need three TDS numbers not just the DI TDS. You need the tap water TDS, the RO only TDS and the RO/DI or final TDS. This will get you your rejection rate or removal efficiency which is the key to the whole process, the DI is just a final polishing off.
     
  7. fishboyt

    fishboyt Bristle Worm

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    I was figuring out how much all new filters would cost, and the number came out pretty close to how much this unit, with all the filters, is: MAXPURE MPDI SYSTEM Should I buy this?
     
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  9. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    Thats the same one that is at the top of the sales flyer I linked to.
    Its a great deal considering what replacement parts cost. You will also find the Spectrapure unit uses better quality canisters, John Guest Speed Fittings rather than the cheap screw on compression fittings the WG uses, has an inline pressure gauge and a better bracket and hardware.

    I'd buy it and pawn the WG off on someone who wants drinking water.
     
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  10. fishboyt

    fishboyt Bristle Worm

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    Sweet! Thanks! :)