want to install bean animal overflow

So im sure my glass isnt tempered from what I can see on the only markings I can find it says h112a which if I read right as long as there is no t im safe.

I want to do a bean animal Overflow on my 40gal breeder, wana try to make it a 700gph turn over system maybe 1000 but idk where to start cant find any instruction unless im not looking hard enough can some one who has done this before help me its my first time trying to cut class and set up a overflow

 

theres tons of threads where people show their bean animal. What I did was drill the holes at the top of the back glass, silicon a glass coast to coast overflow box around the holes, and install the bulkheads and do the plumbing.

BeanAnimal's Bar and Grill - Silent and Fail-Safe Overflow System

You can look at the pics from bean animals original design on his website I listed above. Basically, there a 3 drains. The first handles about 95%of the flow. This drain has a gate valve (I would not recommend a ball valve) to put back pressure on the flow and thus raise the water level above the intake of the drain. This prevents air from entering the pipe and converts the drain into a full siphon, which can handle much more flow than a regular standpipe. The second drain handles about 5% of the flow. Slow enough that the water clings to the inside of the pipe to prevent splashing. Air is allowed into this pipe through an airline. If the water level in the overflow box gets too high, the air line is submerged, blocking the air and converts the second pipe into a full siphon, which flushes the overflow box and continues flushing until the blockage is discovered and addressed. The third and final drain is never used and is only in the extreme unrealistic event that the other two pipes are clogged. The elbow on this pipe is turned up above the water level in the overflow box so it only carries water if the water level raises too high.

 

BTW, I had a glass shop cut and polish the glass for me. Cost about 20 bucks i think?

 

Still have alot of question, I reasd that and still cant really grasp the concept, if ik someone that had I would be good to go cause then I can have a hands on exp with it.

One main question is how do you make sure the siphon restarts, also how do you control flow things like that

 

I just really would like a step by step break down of how to set it up and such.

 

All the info really is on the site. It might take you a little while to mentally connect all the dots as to how it works...

I believe one thing that's not mentioned on his site but many folks have been doing is to drill your "main siphon" hole 1/4" lower then the other two holes. This will place it slightly lower than the other two drains to "help" it start the siphon faster as it will get more water sooner than the Open channel.

I am\was really excited to build one. However, I'm going to wait until I move and simply go to a bigger tank.

Good luck!

 

While most definitely silent and very well designed, 700-1000gph through your sump is overkill. 200-400 is more reasonable and much easier to obtain without having to do all the work and fine tuning involved in a bean overflow.

I myself was considering doing the same thing, but I really can't justify the use of a bean overflow on anything smaller than 55-75g aquarium. Even then it would end up being turned waaaaay down.

 

Mmm well how do you get the siphon going and keep it going and how to control flow and such

 

Through the use of ball valves is how the flow in the main drain (siphon) is maintained. The second drain is for all intents and purposes an open drain that takes what little flow not taken by the main. The third is merely an emergency drain should either the main, or secondary get clogged.

It's incredibly simple in all reality. Just looks complicated.

Here is a link to Beans site that explains it. BeanAnimal's Bar and Grill - Silent and Fail-Safe Overflow System


ninja edit: One other thing about the bean overflow is it can be scaled to the tank. You don't have to run 1" bulkheads and then 1.5" piping to the sump. The system will work the same if you use 3/4" pvc, or 4" pvc. The principle stays the same. The flow rates are what change.

this video here shows the system working with 3/4" pvc. Just mute it while you watch as the music is incredibly bad. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mv-5zft2DTw

 

Like Jodah mentioned in your other thread.
I think the gla$$holes 700 box would be great for your setup.
If you want more redundency, go with their 1500 overflow box!

building the bean will be a lot of work and setup initially. and it will prob be more expensive if you make any construction mistakes...