Torch Coral

Discussion in 'Coral Health' started by Elliot09, Aug 27, 2009.

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  1. Elliot09

    Elliot09 Bristle Worm

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    Hey!

    This looked like the place to come as far as these forums go. ;D

    Tomorrow/Saturday I'm getting a green torch coral. I was in my LFS yesterday, and the guy who I usually buy off was right in the middle of making an order with TMC (I live in the UK). As usual he came out to see me and have a chat etc. and asked what I was looking for - I enquired about Torch Corals and he said he was just about to order one, and gave me a colour choice. It's being shipped and quarantined for a while today, and I'm then going to pick it up later tomorrow afternoon or Saturday morning.

    So my question is, is there anything I should be looking for on the coral that means I should not purchase it? I know about brown jelly disease, so that's top of my list for checking first, as it's being shipped today, but are there any others you guys would see as making buying the coral a mistake?

    Also, what should I feed it, and how often? And, finally, is it OK to place it on the substrate?

    Any help is greatly appreciated!
     
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  3. phoenixhieghts

    phoenixhieghts Panda Puffer

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    Hey Elliot

    Im also UK :) Torch corals are really easy to look after and look very effective! One of my favourites.

    Obviously if one has has BJD don't touch it, it will probably be dead within the next couple of days.
    When i buy LPS corals the main thing i look for is the skeleton. If you can see it either poking through the flesh or the flesh has receded and is showing the skeleton around the edges, again my advice is not to buy it.

    Hope that helps :)
     
  4. steve wright

    steve wright Super Moderator

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    welcome to 3 reef Elliot

    +1 on advice on what to look for when collecting

    depeding on your lighting and depth of tank - they are OK low down and prefer gentle water movement / slow flow

    they dont like being handled - make sure you dont touch the flesh as this can cause heads to decay IME

    they dont like water change water being poured directly on top of them - they dont handle quick parameter changes to well IME

    they like to fully expand without the flesh contacting surrounding surfaces

    They do take a lot of their nurtrition from the lighting but can and do take small foods like mysis / brine etc and mine goes seems to enjoy it when cyclop- eeze is offered

    http://www.3reef.com/forums/coral/coral-feeding-general-62915.html

    you might find this interesting

    its a nice coral and one of my favourites

    Steve
     
  5. Elliot09

    Elliot09 Bristle Worm

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    Thanks guys! :)

    I have 150W Metal Halides (shouldn't be a problem, right?), so I'm planning on keeping it low down anyway.

    I'll be drip acclimating it, and usually tend to spend more time doing this, rather than less. What's a sensible time to stop dripping?

    The guys in the shop are always very useful, but they are, at the end of the day, salesmen, so it's always best IMO to get advice from more than one place!
     
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  6. whippy

    whippy Sailfin Tang

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    That right there. That is the smartest thing I've heard in a LONG time!
     
  7. steve wright

    steve wright Super Moderator

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    Hi Elliot

    150 watt MH should not be an issue, with the Torch on the bottom- but how deep is the tank?

    drip method
    you need a small enough container to ensure coral is fully submerged when out of bag (You knew that, sorry)
    then using air line tubing and a clamp ( well thats what I have to hand and it seems OK)
    start a syphon and then clamp down so you get maybe half a dozen drops a minute

    let that drip until you have doubled the water in the container
    pour 50% away and start again
    when it doubles up again - your ready
    lift tub and gently lift coral out by the plug or rock and locate
    throw away the water

    or bag method can also be used
    float bag for 15 mins
    open bag, and add DT water - half a cup or so
    repeat at 5 min intervals
    again pour away water , when bag has double original amount
    start adding again
    once doubled again
    lift out and place

    Steve
     
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  9. iLLwiLL

    iLLwiLL Sailfin Tang

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    Call me crazy, but I dont drip acclimate corals. I usually float them for 15 mins, freshwater dip for 1-2 mins, then back to their water to be hit with a baster / tiny powerhead to remove any nasties, then another 1 - 2 min FW dip, then they go into the display. I just did this process to a torch and 7 other corals this last weekend and there all doing great.

    fish, however, are another story all together.

    ~Will.
     
  10. Elliot09

    Elliot09 Bristle Worm

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    The tank's a Rena Aqualife 350. Just off the top of my head, it's 70cm deep, I think (obviously, this isn't all filled up to the brim with water, and then there's the substrate etc.).. I think I need to invest in a fan tomorrow too, as by the end of the day, the tank water has heated up by almost a degree (how harmful would that be?).

    Would placing it on the bottom be too far from the lights?

    And as for acclimation - I'm relatively new still, so the safest method possible is best for me! Don't know what you guys would say that is?
     
  11. Elliot09

    Elliot09 Bristle Worm

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    Haha! It's quite incredible, actually, the advice you get given can vary so much from person to person - they're each individual creatures so everyone has a different experience to a point. I guess that's just an example of why it's such an exciting hobby.
     
  12. steve wright

    steve wright Super Moderator

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    well depending what the temp figure is, a variation in 1 degree or a couple of degrees or so over a day is not an issue if the tank starts getting over mid 80s IME some residents get unhappy, fish are normally OK but corals start to wilt in the heat

    no I reckon with you lighting in that tank the bottom is a good location (IMO)

    Best method is the method your most comfortable with
    drip method works

    IllWills method also works for many many people

    Steve
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2009