Discussion in 'ASAP' started by Caseyds7NY, Jun 7, 2010.
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broccoli is also a nice supplement my trigger loved it to.
It may not be Ich. Advanced stages of velvet (Oodinium) will cause the skin to peel of fish. I could be wrong, but I believe it causes smaller white dots that could be confused with Ich. The dots of velvet will look like someone sprinkled your tang with powdered sugar. Ich will look more like salt. From what I'ved heard cross your fingers that your tang has Ich because velvet can be a hot mess.
Well, this morning my tang is all jacked up. One eye is is completely white. He didn't eat at all last yesterday. Not good.
My clowns ate very little yesterday but nothing this morning. My little clown has a crap load of white spots on him, also not good.
I think the only option I have to is QT all three now, what do you all think?
Will my goby and inverts get ich/velvet?
From what I have read, put them into QT. There is a way to fight Ich without the use of chemicals and it is simply by raising water temp. Studies have shown that strains of Ich cannot reproduce in temps above 85 degrees. If you choose this method you need to agitate the surface of the water to produce more oxygen because at temps this high the water will not hold as much oxygen for the fish. Also, do not use chemicals if you are raising temp.
Pulling the following from http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
Take a look at the entire website for the most common ways to alleviate your tank from Ich.
The adjusted temperature should be maintained for approximately 10 days, or a minimum of 3 days after all signs of the parasite have disappeared. Do not discontinue treatment when the spots go away. This is critical, because we know that they are visible only as a trophont on the body of the host, and not during the reproductive or free-swimming stage. We also know that trophonts on the gills are impossible to see.
One last note on raised temperature treatment: If you follow the directions here thoroughly and have a subsequent outbreak without having added new fish or plants, you may need to try a different approach. It is possible to encounter a resistant strain of ichthyophthirius, as there have been rare instances recorded where the organism survived at 92ºF!
You need to QT all the fish, if you want to treat with chemicals thats fine, but in your main tank I would raise the temp and speed up the life cycle of the ich and hopefully it will be all gone within 4 weeks
As you can see by my join date and how many posts I have done I am by no means and expert. hopefully someone will correct me if I am wrong. good luck
Please see my questions above in red. Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I do everything correctly. If it's velvet will this also take care of it?
If you are going to transfer the infected fish into the QT then you would raise the temp on that aquarium not your DT your inverts should be fine the disease does not transfer to them it is a fish sickness. As far as you asking about your coral I don't understand there is not reason to move your coral from my DT just move the infected and treat. You will have to be careful though since the clowns were the ones picking on the tang earlier you may need to build some sort of divieder in the QT tank until they get used to it or learn to get along.
You shouldn't need to do anything to your DT if the diesase does not have a suitable host they will start to die off... However remember that now that it is in your tank it is there to stay basicly... Just try to keep it in check from here on out.
I misunderstood on which tank to raise the temp.
The "big" clown only attacked the Tang when we first got sick, not since so I am hoping it won't be a problem.
I will give it a try this evening, I hope everything works out.
Well I came home after work and my Tang was gone...not cool. Now I have to try and save my clowns, they look like crap.
Well, what kind of tang, how big, and what are the tankmates? I had a powder brown that went through the exact same decline as your tang from what I believe was stress. When thw lights were on everything was fine. After lights out he went bonkers swimming very fast all over the place. Turns out my low flow made it instinctivly thing that after lights out he was trapped in a shallow lagoon and would be easy pickins for birds.
Casey, I would say, as Clarky has, to raise your water temp first. Then try the ich treatment if that doesn't work. DO NOT do both at the same time. If you transfer infected fish to your QT, raise that temp only. I don't know how well your corals would fair with extreme temps, compared to what they are used to. Sorry your tang died.
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