Here is a quick reference list to keep the names and Kelvin rating straight. ATi: Sun Pro - daylight - 6000K Aquablue Special - blue/daylight - 12000K Blue Plus - blue/actinic - 20000K - 450n Actinic Blue - actinic - 420n GE: Daylight - 6500K Giesemann: PowerChrome Midday Sun - 6000K Aqua Blue Plus - 60%Blue/40%Daylight - 11000K Actinic Plus - actinic/blue - 450n Pure Actinic - actinic - 420n UV Lighting: AquaSun - daylight - 10000K Actinic White - 50%daylight/50%actinc - 12000K Super Actinic - actinic Additional Notes and Observations: • T5 Bulbs MUST use a reflector per bulb for optimum operation. In addition, weekly cleaning of bulbs/reflectors is necessary if water splash occurs. • When upgrading to T5, ALWAYS acclimate corals over a minimum of 1 week to prevent bleaching. Iodine supplements also help. • ATi bulbs seem to light end to end better. Where as Giesemann leave about a 1 ½ of black at both ends. • Replace bulbs every 18 – 24 months if using standard ballast • If using Ice Cap ballast, replace bulbs every 12 – 18 months • Using Ice Cap ballast will over drive the bulbs producing more usable light. • Significant reduction in heat (normal operation) over VHO lighting while producing higher PAR ratings. • T5’s produce more PAR/sq in. than halides. • Switching from halide to T5, corals might need to be moved around if they were use to a shade spot that is now lit up. • For SPS tanks use more of the blue/actinic bulbs vs. straight actinic. For example, 4 bulb combo – 2 x Aquablue Special, 1 x Actinic Blue, 1 x Sun Pro • For Soft /LPS tanks use more straight actinic. For example, 4 bulb combo – 2 x Aquablue Special, 2 x Actinic Blue. Swap a daylight bulb for one of the Aquablue Specials if you don’t like a lot of blue color. • Tank depth vs. Number of Bulbs – 4 to 6 bulb fixture up to 18” depth, 6 to 8 bulb fixture 18 – 24” depth. • Suggestions about purchasing – If doing retro kit, go with IC ballast and reflectors. If buying a light fixture, TEK 5 fixtures are extremely well made.