Switching Over to MH [Update]

Discussion in 'Metal Halide Aquarium Lighting' started by GuitarMan89, Aug 6, 2010.

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  1. GuitarMan89

    GuitarMan89 Giant Squid

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    Well, I've finally decided to switch over to MH lighting. I've had T5s since I started my tank and after seeing people's tanks with MHs on it, I've wanted to go that route. However, the cost and possible heat made me reconsider. However, I have not decided to make the switch. I currently have a Tek 6x54W T5 fixture, soon to be for sale. I've tried many bulb combos, but I have always felt that my corals just don't have the color I want. I've gotten too many corals from MH tanks that lost nearly all or most of their color under my lighting. I dont' know if its my spectrum or what. I currently have 2 ATI Blue+, 2 UVL Super Actinic, 1 UVL 10k and 1 UVL 12k as my bulbs, but I've tried many different combos. Even the corals I have that have decent color look dull IMO when compared to those under MH I've seen. Now, I'm not bashing T5s, as there are tanks out there that look great, have great color etc. But I want to switch, plus, the shimmer effect really makes a tank stand out. (For those of you who may pose the question, my phosphates are at 0 and have 0 nitrates.)

    I've decided on a SLS Maristar 36" fixture which is 2x250w MH with 2 39w T5s. I've decided on the 36" fixture, even though I have a 48" tank for several reasons, mainly because when I change tanks, I plan on a 3" long tank that is really wide, and even if I go 4", I like the way the 36" looks over a longer tank. It should also hopefully give me a few areas of lower light. I am planning on using a dual Galaxy ballast with Phoenix 14K bulbs. I know it's kind of a tease to post this now, but I should have this setup in the next few weeks. After the bulbs burn in, I will take pics and post them and I will definitely describe pros/cons I see with the MH vs. T5, coral color etc.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2010
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  3. kcbrad

    kcbrad Giant Squid

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    Can't wait to read your posts about how you like the MH compared to your T5s. I'm in the same boat. I don't really love my T5s, but the heat aspect of MHs scare me - plus all those stories of the MHs catching fire.
     
  4. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator

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    Welcome to the dark side (or light side?). On a 55 with dual 250's you'll need a chiller. I started with a 55 and dual 150's and was borderline on needing a chiller. Once I upgraded to 250W bulbs, the need for a chiller was undeniable.

    Do you already have one? If not, any ideas on which you'll be buying? I got the 1/3 HP JBJ Arctica. It's a bit overkill, but does the job and fast.
     
  5. crank2211

    crank2211 Purple Spiny Lobster

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    Cool, good luck man. Definitely keep us updated.

    I'm actually working out the final details to incorporate 16-20 3W LEDs into my T5 fixture to add shimmer and try to and help with coloration. I'm trying desperately hard to not go MH because of cost and heat.
     
  6. Telgar

    Telgar Snowflake Eel

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    Sounds like a good plan, my pendents hang closer to the middle of my 90 leaving me some noticably darker areas in the corners for lower light corals - works great for me so far :)

    good luck :jester:
     
  7. GuitarMan89

    GuitarMan89 Giant Squid

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    I've thought of this, but from other people I've talked to, it seemed to depend. Right now, my tank stays around 75-76 degrees at the hottest time and now during the summer. Even if the MHs raise the temp 5 degrees, I'll still be good. Plus I have a 20 gallon sump and my tank is in the basement. I'm not going to be using a canopy, but a hanging fixture, so I'll have the fixture about 12" off the surface.

    Now what you have said does concern me a little. What I may do now is, keep my T5 fixture for now, set up the MH fixture, acclimate the tank as I would have done with the Mhs for only a few hours, then slowly increase the time they are on and closely monitor the temp. If the temp begins to get too high, I can put the T5 fixture back on and decide what to do then. I really want to avoid a chiller, but I will look into it. Thanks for the advice.
     
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  9. Dingo

    Dingo Giant Squid

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    if its any consolation, my dad has 2 250w DE Phoenix 14k driven by icecaps over his 55 gallon. there isnt really a heat issue... never had a need for a chiller, only the occasional fan on the very hot days.

    do you want the actinic pop or the subtle secondary colors of corals to come out?
     
  10. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator

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    Maybe you'll get by without a chiller afterall. I'm in FL, and for reference my tank is 77.2 at 6am, with a fan having run overnight over the sump since the night before. Halides shut off at 7, actinics off at 8. So my baseline temp is probably about 78-79 in a cool room after 10 hours of no halides. I too have a 20G sump, "hanging" fixture (on legs about 5" above the tank), and no canopy.

    It'll be close. I'd be willing to wager that with dual 150's you might sneak under. Good luck!!! :)

     
  11. scooter-2505

    scooter-2505 Fire Worm

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    i have dual 150s on my 55er with no heat problems only using the built in fans. i'm in arkansas and it's been 110 degrees the past 3 days. my lights are suspended 6 inches off the water.
     
  12. bama

    bama Humpback Whale

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    Now I want MH.. You guys are a bad influence.. If KC gets it, Im in hahah