Skimmer, Sump, Pump Build

YEA.... Still skimming like a champ.

 

Awesome sparky!!! Looks great. For your ATO...does that come directly from your RO/DI unit? (implementing some sort of automatic shut off valve?)

 

we have one of those float switches at my buddy's on his RO/DI unit. He flooded his place a couple of times, so it was time to buy it. Basically it's like a mini version of what's in the toilet. As the float goes up, it makes a nice seal and stops flow. Your RO/DI unit will need one of those pressure switches which will shut down the water running through the system as well as the membrane flush.

edit....this is the shut off I am refering to...

http://www.purelyh2o.com/index.php?...tegory_id=36&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=105

 

Great thanks

 

Yes it does. It requires that you have an ASOV; which comes stock with all RODI systems sold by H2O guru.

I also implement a solenoid valve, which adds extra assurance by only allowing the RODI to run for 30 minutes, every 12 hours. When the float valve demands water, RODI product water only flows from the unit for half an hour, twice per 24 hour period. In this way, there's virtually zero chance of a flood or catastrophe.

 

I've been very busy lately, and my tank has been without a sump or skimmer for about 48 hours. Only my 3 powerheads have been keeping flow going. My corals have told me by appearance I must act. After a 10 hour day, I came home and did the unthinkable: hooked it all up.

It runs. Observation period begins. I'll have pics of the whole shebang soon.

 

For now, my first impressions include shock at how quiet this pump is. After 90 minutes of running, the motor is cool to the touch. The old Little Giant was too hot to rest a hand upon, although it didn't seem to transfer any heat to the water.

With the new setup, gone is the reactor pump, and the 1000 GPH powerhead that fed the chiller. The Little Giant pulled 1.43 amps, moving about 950 GPH if memory serves. The new Iwaki pulls 1.2 amps, and moves 1400 or so GPH. The old skimmer pump didn't have a nameplate with amp draw or flow, but my new XP-2000 does--and it pulls a mere 30 watts. I'm guessing it consumes about half the amperage of the Coralife 220 I had.

All in all, I'm using less power, creating less heat in my water, and doing it all more quietly. This time of night my chiller usually reads about 78 or so. Right now it's at 76.6, and has been since I plugged it back in almost 2 hours ago. While watching TV, I can keep track of the chiller's thermostat, and I'm used to water temperature increasing at least .2 degrees every 10 min's or so. Even without the halides, water temperature would gradually increase. Maybe this increase will be absent with the new setup?

I'll keep everyone posted. For now, I'm thrilled. ;D

 

With change in build, the mandatory observation period ensues, and I find myself unable to sleep. I've been up 3 hours now, and in the nearly 10 hours since "startup," my water temp has gone from 76.6 to 78.2. This says a lot. As mentioned above, I'm used to a gradual increase of water temperature. Even at night with no lighting, the chiller would cycle on at least every 90 minutes.

I'm thrilled that my chiller hasn't come on in about 10 hours!!

I'm about to put my reactor online, filled with fresh carbon and GFO phosphate removing media.

Pictures to follow.

 

The glass tank dissipates heat better than the acrylic you had as well. Glad it is going well. New builds make me nervous too. I have a bad habit of getting something going when I get off work for my weekends only to get it all going by the time I have to go back. I'm a nervous wreck at work for 12 hours.

 

Yeah. I was kind of nervous today, but all looks ok now that I'm home. The corals are looking better, but not quite 100% yet.

I'll now have 4 days solid to observe.