RoDi unit question

BoBo65 · Oct 11, 2014

AZDesertRat said: ↑

Once a RO membrane has been used or wetted it must always stay wet, once it dries out the membrane fabric is ruined.

My recommendation is to first hook the system up, let it run for an hour or so and test your tap water TDS and your RO only TDS before the DI. We can be assured the DI resin is shot since it has a short shelf life even when new so testing the RO/DI TDS won't tell you much.

If the rejection rate (rejection rate is calculated by taking the tap water TDS, subtracting the RO only TDS then dividing that number by the original tap water TDS and multiplying the resulting number by 100) is still in the 98% range your membrane is still good.
An example of calculating the rejection rate would be say your tap water TDS is 250 (the national average) and your RO only TDS is maybe 6. 250-6= 244, 244/250= 0.976, 0.976x100= 97.6% rejection rate or removal efficiency which is still pretty good.

I would replace the sediment filter and carbon block with no larger than their 1.0 micron versions with the 0.5 micron preferred and the DI with either a SilicaBuster or a new Super SilicaBuster cartridge which lasts about 30% longer for only a couple $$ more in initial cost but actually saves you money with the increased lifespan. The sediment and carbon may still be good but they could also be harboring bacteria or viruses too so not worth the risk for a $20-$25 savings. You can get a kit with the sediment, carbon and DI all for one price.
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Thanks AZ I was hoping you would answer, I remember talking with you when I first bought this set up

BoBo65 · Oct 11, 2014

Thanks to all that replied, I am going to test it all tmrw and probably just replace everything.

Bucsfan · Oct 12, 2014

Hmmmmmm. Now I know why I'm running a 3 on my TDS meter. Thanks for the knowledge AZD.

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