Discussion in 'SpectraPure' started by elwolfe, Sep 13, 2012.
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i dont plan on hooking mine up to a ice maker but do plan on hooking up under my sink so i can fill a reservoir to hook to my ATO on my tank. would i need a storage tank or is that strictly for adding drinking water to a sink?
The storage tank is for pressurized on-demand drinking water.
The sump can take all day to refill with the trickle coming out of the RODI system.
i would like to install a drinking water kit but dont like the concept of drilling into my metal sink to install the water faucet for it, unless im makeing this harder then is should be i tend to do that lol.
No easy answer there. Maybe a coil of tubing with a ball valve on the end of it. Pull it out, fill up a bottle sitting in the sink, put it back under the sink.
Try talking to the guy with a GRANITE top!
I mostly agree but much prefer a solenoid valve and float switches versus a float valve for the ATO storage. Another level of safety would be to use the float valve to shut the RO/DI storage off but then also install a ball valve in that line somewhere and shut it off once the reservoir is full so the float valve does not drop 1/4" and start the RO/DI system all over again which leads to TDS creep issues and short DI life. Let the level drop several inches or a foot in your ATO, RO/DI storage reservoir then turn the ball valve back on again so it gets a nice long fill and reduces or negates the effects of TDS creep. Not a deal breaker and you can always use a float valve for now and switch to a solenoid and float switches as the budget allows.
well the sink and the room that the tank are in are in 2 different parts of the house. i planed on using the RO/DI to fill a few reservoir tanks for my ATO but i want to know if there is an easy way to put a faucet in and have like a switch valve for the DI system so that i get only RO water out of the faucet if i ever decide to put it in and drill the whole im assumeing the whole only has to be like 1/2-1/4 inch right?
You can get a three way ball valve that you manually switch between RO only and the DI for the reef. The RO only in this case would be non pressurized though unless you have a drinking water kit/pressure tank.
If you have the pressure tank with a check valve in that branch line though as seen in the diagrams, you would have pressurized RO water for drinking, refrigerator faucet and icemaker etc. and the DI side would have the float valve in a trashcan or whatever. Either the full pressure tank or the raised float valve will trigger the ASOV or autoshutoff valve on the RO system to shut off both the treated and waste flows, the ASOV doesn't care which and does not know the difference, it just senses backpressure and shuts off.
well if i plan on putting in a drinking water kit i can do that right?
like i said i made it harder than it needed to be i see that that DI is off by its self and if i have a valve on it and close it the water wont go threw the the DI just to the faucet right with help of the pressure tank right?
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