Pasty's JBJ28 Haddoni Biotope--New Video (7.4.2014)

After realizing my intro thread probably shouldn't contain all the questions it does, I'm going to bring my inquisitions to THIS part of the forum. I'll figure it out...sooner or later

I've tossed ideas ranging from another 55gal. with a full custom sump/skimmer to my most current 29gal. HQI Biocube. Bottom line, I don't want/need anything more than a pair of clowns (True Percula) and a BTA, or bubble-tip anenome (btw, the usage of acronyms in the aquarium industry is terribly frustrating). With a little bit more digging, I learned that BTA's are completely comptible with true perculas so I might be better advised to go with a carpet (confirm/deny/indifferent)?

I know the standard lighting on the Biocube is not, typically, substantial enough to care for an anenome but I have heard, in some cases that it can be. I still feel better going with the HQI, though. I have also come the realization that 2 small powerheads would be a neccesity. Live sand/live rock are also on my list of must-haves.

How do most of you get your water? Purchase or have an RO/DI unit? Regular water changes are a must but purhcasing pre "mixed" ocean water sounds like it can become expensive and making my own fresh water is a foreign concept (hook-up/implementation).

I've come across a protein skimmer that fits within the Biocube filtration system--the SR3 I believe. Anyone have any experience with this unit or would recommend it for my intended setup?

Anyone recommend an all-inclusive water testing kit? Thermometer? Refractometer?

I'm still undecided about the heater. One of my goals is to have a clean looking setup without a lot of clutter. Obviously, the power heads and heating element will combat my goal but I see this only as another hinderance to overcome.

I may have left some things out but I'm sure my mind will wander onto those things again. I plan on purchasing everything I need (to get the cycle going) this month. Up to that point, I'm impressionable and still soaking up what I can.

 

I think your lighting is sufficient for your needs.

Definitely purchase a RODI filtration unit.

Buy a dry salt mix.

The API kit for reef would be the way to go. Just get a regular alcohol thermometer. A refractometer is the way to go over a hydrometer. You might be able to place the heater in one of the sump sections of the bio cube.

Purchase dry sand, the live sand is really a waste as most of your bacteria will be in the rocks. Buy mostly dry rock also and a few pounds of live rock to seed the tank and start your cycle.

 

Can you recommend a competant (and not bank busting) RODI unit? I've come across a couple but have no confidence in anything given my lack of experience.

 

I use this BRS 75 gpd 4 stage. It's worked well. If you join a BRS group buy there is a decent discount.

 

I think that is a good suggestion from Clonefarmer.

 

See my answers above, hope they help a lil

 

In SW a larger system will stay more stable. If you can go with the bigger 55g than I would recommend it. Livestock wants/needs will change once you set that tank up and realize how many amazing fish/corals/inverts the SW hobby has .

If I get bitten to house more/larger, I'll just buy another setup. This is for my bedroom(I have a curious cat) and I do not want anything larger for the time being.

If you have your heart set on a clown/nem pair, I would definitely go with a BTA to start with, other acryonyms include RBTA (Rose Bubble-Tip) GBTA (Green Bubble Tip). BTA's are one of the easier nems IMO. However, it is absolutely best that you first have a stable system before adding any anemone. Roughly 6+ months is how long you should wait before attempting one.

I have no disillusions about the time it takes a tank to become ready/stable. Honestly, aside from goals, creatures shouldn't even be on
my list right now.

You will also need to make sure that the tank is safe for a wandering nem. Screening off your powerheads, filter intakes. Nems will do whatever they want/whenever they want, and may wander for days & you must make sure they don't get sucked into a pump/intake and foul the tank.

Very good advice. I have read that in a few other places as well.

Live/Base Rock is a must, sand doesn't have to be "live" it will be seeded by your live rock. Lighting is def important, what is the light you are attempting to use? Ultimately since you need to have a stable tank, you can obtain a better light during the months you will be waiting.

The HQI comes with "Lighting system: 150 Watt, 14,000K, double-ended HQI metal halide lamp". Interesting thought about the live rock trickling into the dry sand. I have not come across that yet but it makes logical sense to me.

RO/DI unit seems daunting but is extremely easy to use. In it's simplest hook-up, you are screwing the end of the input line onto a faucet. Turning the cold water on, you have two lines, yellow line for waste water (to go down the drain or be collected for other uses) and blue line is your "pure" water that will be used for your top-offs and water changes. That's really it, the rate of how much pure water is made vs waste is def varied. It takes me roughly 1.5-2hr to make 5g of water with my unit.

I guess I'll have to give it a whirl. The BSA posted above seems like a good mixture of positive reviews and price

no exp with that one, is this hang on back or in-sump skimmer? I recommend Reef Octopus, great bang for the buck

Here is a link to the skimmer. It is made by CPR Aquatics: Amazon.com: CPR Aquatics SR3 Protein Skimmer, Sump Model w/ Accela Pump: Kitchen & Dining

Any refracto, via Dr. Foster & Smith or other reputable dealers. Digital thermo is good. API Saltwater Master kit for basic params. Salifert kits for extended params when or if you go the route of a reef (Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphate)

Roger that!

Ebo Jager is the best heater iMO if you can fit it. If you have a sump you can hide your equipment.

I have no run across that yet but I'll look into it this afternoon.

Thanks for the replies. As I said, I'm completely open to any and all ideas/opinions.

 

If you're planning on using a sump a tank with a built in overflow may be the way to go.

 

I think I'm going to leave that part stock during the cycling and slowly add bioload. The bioload may not even be enough to warrant the skimmer so if it is, I'll add it and go from there.

From what I've read, the first chamber of filtration has a false bottom which means I can cut it out and give myself room for the heating element. This is good news since it allows me to hide one more thing. I was looking at, potentially, (2)Koralia Nano 425's to pick up the slack in the "current" dept.

 

I would start with one Koralia Nano and see how you like it. Honestly they did not provided enough flow for me in my 24 gallon (the tank had BTA's). I think you would probably be happier with a #2.

In my current tank I have a #4 and #2 and it's 28 gallons.