Ordering my LEDs soon, need some opinions! - pg3

Discussion in 'LED Aquarium Lighting' started by Inertiatic, Feb 29, 2012.

to remove this notice and enjoy 3reef content with less ads. 3reef membership is free.

  1. Inertiatic

    Inertiatic Bubble Tip Anemone

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2011
    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Carlsbad, CA
    After seeing the way some of my corals looked under AquaSD's LEDs and then how they looked under my T5s, I started to dislike my T5s. I began researching LEDs and users who have used them or still do. Decided to take the plunge and see if my wife was okay with the idea for my birthday.

    Shot me down, lol. But after some convincing about not having to replace $100 in bulbs every year and the lower power consumption, she budged. She also ruined one of my textbooks with her coffee this morning, think that helped.

    Anyways, birthday is in May, so I'm planning everything now so I can get right to work when the day hits.

    My tank is a 26 gallon bowfront 24''L x 13''W (at the bow) x 21''H. From the sandbed to the waterline is 17''.

    I'm thinking about using 30 LEDs. I have a mixed reef which includes softies, LPS, SPS, a crocea clam, and an anemone so I need the right lighting to accommodate everyone. I've been reading about the uses of UV LEDs and mixing the other colored LEDs to acquire a full spectrum.

    I would just like any suggestions anyone may have about the number of LEDs to get and the amount of colored LEDs you would recommend. If it helps, I like more of a bluer look, about 15k and I am getting dimmable drivers.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2012
  2. Click Here!

  3. Illusions

    Illusions Flamingo Tongue

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2011
    Messages:
    107
    Location:
    Reno, NV
    I think that's a great start! I took the plunge myself and bought the rapid ultra 24 kit as well as the UV kit from them to see what I liked. In the end it's looking like 60 or so over my 54 corner. I got all the colors they offered to see what kind of combo I like. I just got them so I will post what I find soon. The colors that LEDs bring out is stunning. You will love them!
     
  4. exactlyobp

    exactlyobp Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    3,984
    Location:
    Cedar City UT
    Congrats (on getting the green light from the boss)!!

    Here's some brainstorm:
    -4.25x23" heatsink
    -12 Royal Blue
    -8 Cool White 4 Neutral White
    -6~8 420nm 2 Blue 2 Cyan
    -2 dimmable drivers
    -1 constant current driver

    It's overkill for your setup, but Id like it to be more than not enough. I dont consider this as full spectrum either, but definitely wider.

    I hope this helps!
     
  5. Inertiatic

    Inertiatic Bubble Tip Anemone

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2011
    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Carlsbad, CA
    Sounds great! Looking forward to see your results.
     
  6. Inertiatic

    Inertiatic Bubble Tip Anemone

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2011
    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Carlsbad, CA
    Definitely helping. So I want a pretty decent amount of UV LEDs then?

    I agree about preferring overkill to not having enough. Which is why I want dimmable.

    Few questions, why would I use one constant current driver and what LEDs should I run with it? And why wouldn't you consider it a full spectrum? How can I achieve a full spectrum?
     
  7. exactlyobp

    exactlyobp Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    3,984
    Location:
    Cedar City UT
    It's a very debatable subject, but I believe so, yes.

    Lets see...
    A constant driver is way cheaper than dimmable. Youd run 6~8 420nm, 2 Blue and 2 Cyan on this driver. You can still go dimmable if you like :)

    Neutral White does include red spectrum but not enough to be full. Youd need lower than 400nm (like 395~398nm) as well. However, since it is the idea for only 30 LEDs, Id suggest you to design it rather simple. Also what I brainstormed is really close to what I DIYed, I didnt wanna sound cocky or anything... :p
     
  8. Click Here!

  9. Inertiatic

    Inertiatic Bubble Tip Anemone

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2011
    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Carlsbad, CA
    Haha, not cocky at all. I read your thread, so I was hoping you would chime in. My idea for 30 LEDs is pretty open in the air. I'm very open to changing that as needed. I just based that number of of their 29 Biocube retrofit containing 24 LEDs.

    I noticed you used two different UV LEDs. Rapid's UV ones are in the 410-420 wavelength. Would you recommend these by themselves or mixing them with the 398 UV LEDs?

    And about the constant driver. So you recommend running the colored lenses at full power all the time. No need to dim them.

    I'm having trouble deciding on optics. I figured since I will be getting the 23'' heat sink, I can cluster the colored LEDs in the middle without optics and place blue/white LEDs with 40 degree optics around them. Then spread out the remaining blue/white LEDs away from the center with 60 degree optics.

    Does that sound like a good plan at all to you?
     
  10. exactlyobp

    exactlyobp Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    3,984
    Location:
    Cedar City UT
    Oh I can tell you've gone though other people's threads rather thoroughly including mine, thats why I wanna help :)

    I didnt include the 398nm first because I wasnt really sure if you are willing to go that route. But I take it you're willing to cover every angle as possible: get 398nm LEDs, like 420nm x4 and 398nm x4. I know it's really debatable area to include below 400nm or not, but again personally, go overkill its better than not enough.

    The constant driver that Im talking about runs at 700mA. I think its perfect because most of the UVs and 420 are max rated at 700 and youd want utilize them as much as possible, but not other blue or cyan, especially cyan. The Rapid's cyan is more like 510nm, which is way greener than cyan (I hope Im not confusing you). And green is the most visible to human eye, you dont want it to be too overpowering.

    To be honest, Im not really familiar with your tank, sorry. Are you gonna hang the fixture from ceiling? Or canopy? Either way, the idea about optics is identical to what Id do. Worst case, its just optics, you can change them around easy.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. Inertiatic

    Inertiatic Bubble Tip Anemone

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2011
    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Carlsbad, CA
    Definitely trying to cover every angle and open to experimenting. I figure worst case scenario, I pop off those 4 LEDs and replace them.

    So I would want to put all of the UV LEDs on one driver to run at 700mA. The Blues, Green, Red, and Cyan all run between 800mA - 900mA so I can mix and match them on one or more driver right?

    Since Green is GREEN, should I even bother with it and just get cyan?

    I live in an apartment, so idk how they would feel about hanging something from the ceiling. I was thinking of either constructing my own mounting kit to put on top of the tank or hang them from a bar below a shelf above the tank, like others have done on 3Reef.
     
  12. cosmo

    cosmo Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2011
    Messages:
    6,166
    Location:
    southeast ohio O-H....
    exactylob's got ya covered! My only question would be, for me as well, is if you get a constant current driver, and you want a controller for sunrise, sunset etc, how does that work?

    Honestly just asking!

    I started with the base 50/50 option 48 system for my 55! Since then, i've added 12 of rapids uv/violets, and swapped out 8 rbs for blues and added 4 blues on top of it! I'm staying away from the under 400 uvs because i have a 7 year old that glares in the tank all day! And i wil be swapping out some cw's for nw's!

    That being said, something to consider is their plug and play kit, allows ya to very easily swap out the less and swap them around.

    looking forward to the build thread.