Nitrate and PH

Discussion in 'Water Chemistry' started by Mikeyb, May 24, 2015.

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  1. Mikeyb

    Mikeyb Bristle Worm

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    Hello fellow hobbyists, I am having issues with nitrates and phosphates, I have the API Saltwater master test kit, Ammonia is between 0.0 and 0.20, Nitrite is 0.0, PH is 8.0, and Nitrate is 40ppm, just did my routine water change today, will test again in a day or two. All my critters look and act fine, everyone eating still. But what can I do to raise the PH and lower nitrate, tank is an 80gal bowfront with about 60-70 gal of water, when I water change I do between 8 and 10 gallons. Thanks
     
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  3. Billme

    Billme Eyelash Blennie

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    A couple questions. Do you have any corals? Do you test for alk and ca? How many fish in the tank?
     
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  4. Mikeyb

    Mikeyb Bristle Worm

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    No corals, 2 clowns, 1 coral beauty, and 6 damsels, 9 scarlet hermit crabs, and 6 turbo snails. Eventually corals but want to get everything right first. 1 eight pound piece or live rock, and forty pounds of base rock.
    Don't test for alk or calc, do not have the tests but if needed I will get them.
     
  5. Billme

    Billme Eyelash Blennie

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    No need for the kits yet. How are you testing for phosphates? Do you have a sump? What are you using for filtration?
     
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  6. mdbostwick

    mdbostwick Vlamingii Tang

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    If your pH is stable, don't worry about it but if it swings from day to day or hour to hour, you would need to address this.

    Do you have any issues with algae?

    What is your salinity at?

    If not at 1.026 i would do waterchanges weekly of your 8 -10 gallons. This will help stabilize alk without having to test for it which will stabilize pH and will lower your nitrates/phosphates. This is your best method for nitrate and phosphate removal.

    If you have a sump, run your sump lights opposite your display lights which will help with pH swings if it is higher during the day and lower at night and add chaeto if you don't have it already to help control the nutrients.

    Run your skimmer air line outside. The increased oxygen level should raise the pH a bit.

    If you have an ATO you might think about adding a small amount of Kalk to it which can raise the pH. And i do mean a very low dose, 1/4 teaspoon per gallon. Anything more than that you would definitely need to test for alk and cal. I would use this as a last resort since you don't have any stony coral to take up any of the alk and cal.
     
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  7. Mikeyb

    Mikeyb Bristle Worm

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    Sg right around 1.026, no issues with algae got over the brownish slime algae 2 weeks ago and tank just needs wiped down once weekly, I don't have a sump, have a eheim canister and a HOB skimmer 3 power head and 2 of them are in circulation configuration.
     
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  9. Mikeyb

    Mikeyb Bristle Worm

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    I'm not testing for phosphates at the moment, I would assume they are okay since the diatoms are now gone.
     
  10. Billme

    Billme Eyelash Blennie

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    How often do you do water changes?
     
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  11. coylee_17

    coylee_17 Fire Goby

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    How long has the tank been up and running? I assume if you are just getting over the diatoms stage it is a fairly new tank?
     
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  12. Vinnyboombatz

    Vinnyboombatz Giant Squid

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    Diatoms consume silicates not Phosphate.Its a simple formula really.Nutrient export<Nutrient import=excess nutrients.As stated above increase the size and frequency of wc's to export more nutrients.Chemical filtration,BP'S/Carbon dosing can help but for a beginner these can have there own pitfalls.Lowering of the bioload i.e. less animals will certainly help.
     
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