Need help with wiring.. am I missing something?

FWIW, there's already a means to disconnect the ballast from the pendant in the cord that came with the ballast (with the 3 exposed wire ends.) From what I've seen, a disconnecting means close to the ballast seems to be most commonplace. If you were to use the male end of a computer cord (it's really the female end, though), you'd have two places where the wire can come apart. If having a disconnect closer to the pendant is preferable for your purposes, there's nothing wrong with doing it that way, but it's redundant, and two means of disconnects on the same cord seems unnecessary.

As for the computer power cord, if you could provide a wire gauge I can provide an ampacity. It's probably ample, but I wouldn't personally use it unless I knew what thickness the wires were in the computer power cord. BTW, I'm not 100% confident that's a computer-type plug. I can't see it well enough in the picture. You can find out, though by pulling the cord out of the back of your computer, and seeing if it will fit into the pendant.

 

yeah didnt see the other connector just splice it and be done

 

That's what I was thinking, but everyone's scenario is different--and who knows? Maybe Aqualung has use for the ability to disconnect the plug both at the ballast and at the pendant.

 

I guess i didnt want to cut the connector off the pendant encase i sold it or had to have warranty repairs

 

The cord from my computer fits the pendant. It's a 120v computer cord. The pendant and ballast chord are definately thicker. As for the actual enclosed wires I have no idea!

 

You should be fine. The power supply for my computer is 650W. I had to buy one recently, and I didn't see anything above 750W is memory serves. Assuming that the run of the mill power supply cord is designed to carry the amperage of the largest power supplies into which it could fit--750 watts would be approximately triple the amperage of a 250W halide bulb.

 

That is a lumatek ballast, right? if so, it is designed to run bulbs at lower watts via the switch. So running a 250w at 150w is totally fine.

Also, you don't want to make the run of wire unnecessarily long from the ballast to the bulb. Just leave enough wire to be able to do any maintenance by moving the halide without unplugging it. Any more than that, simply unplug it

 

You would be correct in the assumption that the average computer cord is built for much higher draws than 250w @ 110v. They're rated at 10 amps. 250 w @ 110 v = 2.27 amps, which is approximately what a low-end computer would draw. They're really built for 1100w maximum draw, even though I wouldn't want to draw the maximum on a cord.

 

hOW DO i ADJUST THIS TO FIT A 250w BULB..

 

I'm no expert on MH lighting, but that looks to be a double-ended fixture, which needs a double-ended bulb rather than single-ended.