My Attempt at An Algae Scrubber With Pics

Today,
I pulled the glass strips, the strips that will hold up the screen assembly, and installed the legs. I tried to do it with a smaller tube of silicone and it looked pretty bad, I just can not get my fat hands to fit. After I siliconed all back in, I worked on the screen frame. Drilling and tapping 14 holes is not my favorite thing to do but, it came out pretty good. 6 holes have short 1/4 X 20 screws with washers, these hold the screen to the frame. 8 holes have longer screws, they will be used to adjust the height and angle of the screen. I also cut and installed a piece of glass that the water will hit before making contact with the screen.
Now off to the lfs, to pick up a 1 inch bulkhead.
Here are the pics of the work done this morning. The unit is on its side until the silicone dries.

 

Sure algae will grow under 10-12k but that is not the proper spectrum for an algae scrubber. Corals are best under those upper spectrum bulbs.
Plants grow best under a 3-7k....so the idea is to provide a more favorable environment for algae on the scrubber.
Here's a great link:
Mega-Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover Replaces Skimmer, Refugium, and Everything Else

Double ended metal halide grow lights:
Double Ended Metal Halide Lamp(Commercial Lighting)/150W/R7S MH-150R7S metal hal
http://www.prolighting.com/hqdoentumeha.html

 

I forgot the spray bar. I drilled another hole in the upper corner of the tank. In the pic you will see the tool I used to cut the opening in the spray bar.


This pic has the finished cut and the parts that complete the spray bar.


The two final pics are of the spray bar assembly. The collar on the inside of the tank was cut from a coupler. I slid it over the pipe, then installed the pipe in the tank. I then put pvc glue in the area the collar was to rest and slid the collar over the glue. I installed a union on the outside so the union and collar are pressed lightly against the glass, I hope this will reduce spray outside of the tank. The union will also allow me to adjust the spray bar to optimize the stream across the glass plate.



Now it is ready to be installed.

 

It is plumbed in and water is running through it. I think the spray bar will need to be done. I have found that most of the water is pushed through the far end of the opening. With that said, the screen is fully covered with water.
The valve that I installed is not needed as I can control the water with the valve I used to divert water to the scrubber from the line coming from the display.
I did not address the light it will wait until I fix the spray bar.

 

excellent build thread dngspot

really detailed

Steve

 

To all, thanks for the kind words.

I attempted another spray bar with a much narrower cut, still the water is pushed to the end of the spray bar.
I have decided a different approach, a small pool of water then aiming the water in it. All it took for the mod was to cut out the slanted glass and reposition it. As for the spray bar, I will try a straight pipe into the pool of water first. If the water velocity is to strong, I will install a modified tee if needed.
Now I wait for the silicone to dry.

 

Dang, you ever have a total brain fart you just cannot figure how you put your self in a situation? Well, me too. If you look at the pic above, I used 2 X 4's to support the slanted glass. I don't think you can see but, the lowest piece is too thick to be removed with out hitting the screen supports. After scratching my head for 10 minutes and playing a self inflected Chinese puzzle game for 5 more, I took out my smallest hand saw and spent 45 minutes cutting the 2 X 4. Heck of a way to spend an hour before bed time.

 

hehehe I hate when that happens..

Excellent build. Can't wait to see the final working product!

 

wow seems like alot of work. hope it pays off.

 

I think I have it. No spray bar needed, just a pipe pointing down. An added boost, I said I was not interested in a surging setup, well, I have one anyway. The air in the return line reduces the flow enough to give a surge.

During the take down of a 35g octagon the Coralife 150 watt HQI was damaged. The mounting neck at the light housing was broken. My wife made the mistake of picking up the light and not supporting the ballast. She and I are pretty good to each other so all that came out from me was, I think I can fix it. So I brought home some gel super glue, I love the stuff, it is very useful. I glued the area that broke and held it in place for 10 minutes. Try that sometime, it seems like eternity. Now it dries.

Here are the pics.

The location in my fish room. If you look in the lower corner you will see the subtle hint from my wife, I need to clean the turkey fryer.


A closer look but, not very clear. The water is a bit high I need to adjust.


The upside down Coralife...My drill is supporting it to keep the neck from weight stress.


Blurry closeups of the glued fracture.