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Discussion in 'The Bucket' started by alpha_03, Apr 7, 2011.

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  1. alpha_03

    alpha_03 Bubble Tip Anemone

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    explorer guy- I re-read your postings, does the clutch make noise when you depress the clutch, if so, when? cold/hot - all the time? Does the shifter rattle or vibrate when driving?

    list of things to check, in this order:

    1- trans fluid level
    2- throw out bearing / noise (clutch depressed and when not depressed)
    3- level of pressure required to engage the clutch itself- stiff pedal?
    4- clutch travel (indicator of a defective slave cyc. sticking throw out bearing, worn input shaft)
    5- clutch disc / pressure plate (if it has a distinctive odor- like burnt- it's bad)
    6- transmission

    You state there is no slippage, so I personally feel you have a transmission issue, but, a worn clutch disc / pressure plate can also cause difficult 1st and reverse gear engagement.

    The main reason I lean to wards transmission, is as follows: a brief description

    As previously mentioned the main shaft slows and this is allowing you to engage 1st gear, but, what synchronizers do is allow for engagement at ANY speed- therefore when they go bad, this becomes difficult for the trans to allow shifting certain gears because the syncro is not able to "synchronize" main shaft gear positions- thus allowing easy engagement of 1st gear.

    An ailing clutch disc / pressure plate, and/or a sticking slave cyc. - throwout bearing can also cause this in much the same way, what happens is, the clutch is not disengaging the engine/transmission completely, which keeps torque applied, and this can cause premature transmission failure- such as synchronizers.

    Considering the age of the vehicle, it would be best to follow the above advice. BTW, I still need those codes- to help with the check engine light. One other thing- do you know what the term "double clutching" is?

    As for ABS lamp, consider wheel speed sensors first- you will need a scan tool - ABS testing kit to check this.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2011
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  3. alpha_03

    alpha_03 Bubble Tip Anemone

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    xmetal, spoke with a Kia buddie of mine- he said to check all the body grounds, including the one's under the LH kick panel- they can come loose.
     
  4. xmetalfan99

    xmetalfan99 Giant Squid

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    Ok, time to find the mechanics manual for my car to find out exactly what to do. thank you for the info.
     
  5. alpha_03

    alpha_03 Bubble Tip Anemone

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    No please feel free, this isn't my thread, it's for everyone, heck I learn new stuff all the time, just cause I have 30+ years at this in no way makes me know everything.

    I would appreciate the help.

    Thanks ;)
     
  6. alpha_03

    alpha_03 Bubble Tip Anemone

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    xmetal I just found this- is this what happens?

    2003-2006 Optima (MS) Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter Memory Loss (Electrical - 011)

    Description
    Some owners of 2003-2006 Optima (MS) vehicles produced from 9/19/2003 - 8/31/2005 may complain of a loss of memory of remote keyless entry (RKE) transmitters.
    While customers typically are still able to lock an unlock the doors with the key and/or with the interior door lock switch, they are no longer able to operate the door locks with their RKE transmitters. To reduce these incidences, Kia has redesigned the remote keyless entry receiver memory function with part number 95790 3C101.
    Effective Vehicle Information:
    Model 2003-2006MY Optima (MS)

    Affected Vehicle Production Range:
    From September 19 2003 to August 31 2005

    Also, I dug a little deeper- that car uses a spedometer gear and cable- so it can only be one of three things- the cable, the gear, or the speedo head itself. If this happens all the time and remains this way, test the gear, then the cable (use a drill) and then the speedo head.

    let me know

    Alpha
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2011
  7. xmetalfan99

    xmetalfan99 Giant Squid

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    That is what happens with my remotes.

    "
    "

    Does this still apply to my other issues?
     
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  9. andru1313

    andru1313 Purple Spiny Lobster

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    Nice!! I do all the shade tree mechanics in my hood. 354 awhp 344 tq Evo IX MR on stock snail.. soon to be over 400awhp so any mitsu questions I can answer as well. :Group hug:
     
  10. alpha_03

    alpha_03 Bubble Tip Anemone

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    Xmetal - No it doesn't-

    But here is what the TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) states:

    Parts Information
    Service Procedure
    Inspection/Replacement Procedure:

    1.Utilizing the RKE Tester (TSB 004 / Special Tools / October, 2004) verify proper signal strength and battery voltage specifications from the RKE Transmitters. Replacement of RKE Transmitters should be avoided unless the functionality test in SST TSB 004 fails.
    2.If the transmitters signal strength and battery voltages are within the specifications of (SST TSB 004), proceed with the replacement of the Keyless Receiver part # 95790 3C101 as outlined in the 2003-2006MY Optima Service Manual. If part number 95790 3C101 was previously replaced, retest RKE transmitters using SST TSB 004 and replace RKE transmitters if necessary
    3.Reprogram both the Keyless Receiver Transmitters using the global Diagnostic System (CDS) Code Saving Mode.


    As for the speedo issue did you see my previous post? can you answer that for me?

    thanks

    Alpha
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2011
  11. xmetalfan99

    xmetalfan99 Giant Squid

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    Referring to the grounds? I can't check that until I get home from work. Probably actually won't be able to check until tomorrow morning.
     
  12. skurious

    skurious Sailfin Tang

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    Anyone have an idea why a 2000 acura 3.2 TL wouldnt start up after already being driven? I think it happens after the engine is good and warm, because after it cools back down it will start right up? This problem didnt occur in the winter, but started when it got warmer out.