Is that possible?

I just converted my fish only 125 gallon tank to reef aquarium. I got about 150 pounds of LR and 3 inches of LS and stared cycling the tank on November 16. I've had a lot of experience with salt water fish but none with corals so I'm being very careful. Last night I've tested the ammonia, ph, nitrites and nitrates levels and to my surprise they were all zero with ph of about 8.1. I've kept about 10 gallons of water from my fish tank and removed media from my trickle filter 4 days after cycling started because of recommendation of my local fish store owner. Is it possible that the cycle has been already completed after only10 days? If so, what should I start adding: corals (which kind?), cleaning crew, or fish only. Also, I've ordered CustomSeaLife 72" fixture with 3x250 W metal hallides (5500 K) and 2x96 W blue actinic PC combo, which should be in on November 29. Is the light going be too yellow in color and do you think that blue actic will have an impact on raising color temperature to more eye pleasing effect? The upgrade of hallides to higher temperature would cost $160. Thank you for all replies.

 

With that much rock I would think it would be possible to cycle that fast. However, if it were me, I would give it another week or two for piece of mind.

For coral, fish, and cleaning crew picks from me, check out the 'step 3' page, the 'recommended fish' page and the 'sand' page.

As for those lights, I would replace the bulbs at least. 5500k bulbs are what I had over 10 years ago on my 40 breeder tank. They are 1st generation halides for aquariums and are not that great. They are mainly good for growing algae in that spectrum. The actinics do help, but you will still have a yellowy tinge to it. The asthetics aren't as important as the fact that they are not the optimal for coral growth.

Either swap the bulbs if you can, or get a whole different fixture.

Check out www.championlighting.com for ideas.

:thumbsup:

 

Many reefers prefer the 5500 kelvin, they say it looks more natural.  If your using a acrylic tank, some manufacturers say go with any kelvin above 10K, ie. 20k for mh's.  They have found anything lower is higher in a spectrum that'll degrade the acrylic(one reason I'm looking at buying a Sapphire Glass 180 for my new main display tank($2k)).  They won't openly admit it or talk about it to just anyone, but I have been told personally by a major manufacturer (friend of mine) to use 15k>20k.  Personally I don't like 5500k, I run 10k mh's on some tanks and 20k mh's on others.  BTW, the only true actinic is VHO and standard flourescent, pc's are within the range but also give other spectrums to boot.  My ultimate combo is mh/VHO.