Is my pH the culprit???

I will say that the circulation from the return has been drastically reduced from the coralife chiller 1/6hp I've installed...

There used to be a lot of bubbles from when it hit the surface into the tank... not anymore...

So I should put a power head at the top along the surface? any pics to show so I have a better idea

PS no glass top... it's open in the canopy

 

Are you going to upgrade your lights? If not, you could have the greatest/cleanest water in the world and it won't do the anemone a darned bit of good.

 

You do no that if the chiller is close enough to the tank that you can simply use a corallife return J tube and siphon the water from the tank to the chiller or simply put the chiller on a pasive bypass from the tanks drain to sump no need to waste the main pumps power. I wish you better luck with that chiller then our buddy here he dropped it off last night its less then a week old he was told at the LFS and the comoresser is locked up tight. Little Chrome looking corallife 1/4 hp chiller DOA ):

Oh and I'd leave that anemone right where it is at your tank will not be near ready for it, Heck your tank is really not ready for very much at jsut a few months old A LFS will sell you all you will buy thats how they eat.. and the more problems you have and animals that die the more they sell .

 

So 3 watts per gallon isn't enough?
Can someone than help suggest the best lighting that still fits in my canopy. My wife won't let me take it off. Any suggestions on brand and price points?
Thanks,
Ryan

I'm currently using Sundial by Current USA t5 lighting with 216 total watts in my 72 gallon bowfront aquarium.

 

Not nearly enough for an anemone, especially a carpet anemone that sits on the bottom of an 18" tank. Hopefully, somebody else will chime in about what will fit into your canopy.

 

The watts per Gallon is about as much a crock as the 1 inch per fish per gallon. or L/R equals totally and fully cycled tank over night or 10x to 20x turn over rates through a sump . How many tubes are you using now ? tank is 36 or 48 " long ? how wide is it from back to the front corners where the bow starts to flow out wards ?

 

stick a pair of metal halide's in the canopy, How tall is it?

 

Thats what I'd do hang a couple of M/H and be done with it and use the t5 for actinic and cut down on M/H run time.

 

what im about to be doing on my 75g lol why it came to mind

 

These are the dimensions for the the actual aquarium:
L 49 x W 8 x H 19

These are the dimensions for the actual light fixture on top of the tank INSIDE the canopy:
48.125" x 9.5" x 3.75"

Keep in mind... my wife DOES NOT want the canopy off...
Also, the bowed out front ... loses about 2.5 inches because the light cannot go all the way forward...
I do have about 3 inches left in the back ...
If push the light fixture all the way to the back... that leaves me with a FULL 3 inches in the front... PLUS 2.5 inches in the middle of the bow front obviously decreasing size as it bows to the ends....

I'd like to get some kind of retro fit mh to go in the front ... keeping my t5's so I can just supplement the light... making one kick butt little system for my needs... Any suggestions!???

THANKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!
ryan