Ich in DT - Looking for Treatment Advice

Discussion in 'Fish Diseases' started by Marshall O, May 26, 2013.

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  1. Marshall O

    Marshall O Giant Squid

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    Well even though I QT all of my new fish, I made a big mistake when adding my most recent addition to my 55 gallon mixed reef. I bought a Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse and Flame Angel online, and both were in my 46 BF QT. Around the 3 week mark, the wrasse had been eating great, and looking very healthy, so I moved him over to the 55. Meanwhile the Flame Angel had not been eating well, so I left him in the QT. The day after I moved over the wrasse, the FA was covered in Ich, and died only a couple of days later. I thought I may have just avoided bringing Ich into the DT, but I was wrong.

    After 2 weeks in the 55, the Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse went from being perfect looking and acting, to covered in Ich. Worst I have ever seen. This lasted a day or two, and then all spots were gone. I knew this was just the next stage of Ich, but I was hoping he would be able to fight it off. I think it was a week later, and same thing, covered again. He was still eating fine, and all I read everywhere was to leave the fish where they are if they are still eating. Well after another week, once again he was covered, and this time it got him. He passed away this morning :(

    Now my Royal Gramma is covered, and my male Lubbock's Fairy Wrasse is showing that he has it as well (has been hiding all day, which is very unlike him). So I am not taking any chances and going to pull all of my fish out of the tank. Remaining fish are RG, M&F Lubbock's Fairy (female has some spots, but is still acting normal), Midas Blenny (no spots and acting fine), and Tiger Wardi Goby (no spots and acting fine). What I need help with is what to do next.

    I have a 40 gallon long tank that I am just finishing filling with new SW today. I can move all fish from the DT into this, and then start a hyposalinity. This tank is going to be a frag tank, which is why I do not want to use copper.

    I also have a 10 gallon tank, which I could certainly use copper in. However a 10 gal would not be big enough to house all of the fish IMO. One note is if I do hyposalinity in the 40, I will move the Goby into my 46 BF as there is a very established sandbed for him to sift vs. a completely dead sandbed in the 40. As mentioned he is showing no signs, and I think moving him to a barebottom tank or one with a new/dead sandbed would compromise his health if left there long.

    Another option would be to use copper treatment (Cupramine) in the 10 gal with a couple of fish at a time, and then move them to the 46BF once treated.

    So, sorry for the length of this, I just wanted to list all of the info and options as I see them. Please lend your experience in this. For reference, here is a picture of the RG as of 20 minutes ago:

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Aquareian

    Aquareian Plankton

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    I would get a cleaner wrass and a couple cleaner shrimp which will eat the parasite causing the ich. Personally I would skip the copper meds.
     
  4. Marshall O

    Marshall O Giant Squid

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    I already have a cleaner shrimp, and I personally believe cleaner wrasse only belong in huge tanks. And I believe it is proven that neither will actually get to parasite buried in the fish. All they may do is offer some "itching" relief. Although none of my fish like the cleaner shrimp near them anyways.
     
  5. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Cleaner shrimp are unable to penetrate the layer of the dermis to successfully eat the parasite. While it may make the fish feel better, it's a myth that cleaner shrimp are an effective treatment for marine ich.
     
  6. Todd_Sails

    Todd_Sails Giant Squid

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    Sorry for your loss Marshal.
     
  7. Marshall O

    Marshall O Giant Squid

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    Thanks man; hoping it's my last :-/
     
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  9. ingtar_shinowa

    ingtar_shinowa Giant Squid

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    feed them alot and soak food in selcon or another vitamin and fatty acid product. And I know its a lightning rod, but A uv Sterilizer helped me once with a massive outbreak on my black tang, food for thought.
     
  10. diverdan

    diverdan Bangghai Cardinal

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    +1. I have had decent success in the past with uv but know that uv will only kill the free floating particals/ stop the ich from reproducing. It will not rid what is already effecting them. That's where the good diet comes into play. IMPE.
     
  11. Marshall O

    Marshall O Giant Squid

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    I feed them twice a day and soak at least one meal in Selcon, and also use garlic on the others. The Flasher was eating very well like this before he broke out, so I was very surprised to see it in the first place. I have thought about UV, and may still add one.

    Agreed on both points. I just don't think there are many out there who vary their fishes diet more than I do :-/ I mix between ~10 quality frozen foods, 2 flake foods (usually once a week), and NLS pellets. I am just past the good diet method to fight this unfortunately :angry: I have a fairly expensive fish in my QT that I will not add into the DT until it has been fallow for 8 weeks. I am just not taking any more chances...
     
  12. oldfishkeeper

    oldfishkeeper Giant Squid

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    Gosh Marshall, I am so sorry you're dealing with this. I know how careful you are......I'm not sure which option would be the best. Copper in the QT isn't an option because of the FA? Could you possibly do copper in the 10 and hypo in the 40 with the less affected? Sounds like using the UV would be good to use as well.