Ich heat speed up?

Discussion in 'Diseases' started by Guy, Jan 1, 2011.

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  1. Guy

    Guy Spaghetti Worm

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    Well, my sail fin has had Ich for about 2 months. I called my LFS and they recommended raising the temperature of the water, saying it speeds up the life cycle of Ich. I have noticed something, the cysts are going and leaving on a regular basis, and he's eating like theres no tomorrow (no pun intended). So I turned my heater up a little bit, and the water went from 76 to 79 degrees. That's not that big of a difference, so I left it. Well it must not have been done heating yet... I just checked for the first time in weeks, and the water was 85 degrees :O nothing has died. I'm wondering if it'd be okay to keep this temp as long as I don't add anything, and as long as nothing dies. I turned the heater dial down, and I guess we'll see how things turn out...
     
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  3. TheSaltwaterGuy

    TheSaltwaterGuy Banned

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    I'd leave it at least 80; IMO 85 is too high. Are u using hyposalinity? thats like the best way to get rid of ick unless the ick has developed too much on the tang
     
  4. Guy

    Guy Spaghetti Worm

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    It's hard to explain. I cant tell if the tang is in late stages or not. The cysts will be on his fins one day, everywhere 2 days later, then not a speck a day after that. And that cycle repeats. He does eat about a 3x4 inch piece of garlic infused seaweed every day. And he'll eat it right down to the clip, along with any flakes or meats i put in the tank. No hospital tank, mine is only 10 gals. I have my corals in the tank, and they're still flourishing. The only real difference I see in the ecosystem is that the algae might be growing a bit faster. But I nearly had a stroke when I looked at the thermometer. :p

    Edit: no hypo salinity either. Is that done by just raising salinity?
     
  5. TheSaltwaterGuy

    TheSaltwaterGuy Banned

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    hypo is done by lowering the salinity to like 1.010. It's one of the best ways to get rid of ick but should only be done in a quarantine tank
     
  6. Guy

    Guy Spaghetti Worm

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    That makes sense. So its like a half freshwater dip. Not even that.I guess I'll just try too keep him eating...
     
  7. TheSaltwaterGuy

    TheSaltwaterGuy Banned

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    just get like a 30 gallon from petco, u no the $1/gallon sale, set it up with water from DT (no need for acclimation), get a HOB filter and a heater and just keep it there with salinity at 1.010 (slowly drop the salinity every day I think; seems less stressful), and still feed it with garlic to keep the immune system up
     
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  9. Guy

    Guy Spaghetti Worm

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    I dunno. I might, maybe. 29 bucks isn't bad for a 29. I'm thinking of getting a 55 tomorrow. (so excited!!!) even if it's not the kit, all I really need is a filter, stand, hood, and light. Along with sand and water. (No RO/DI unit. :( ) so moving water is a large hassle. Unless I go to publix, get 50 or so gallons of freshwater , and use reef crystals in it. :/ after that, everything should be a smooth ride. Not back to the subject, if it gets worse I can try hypo salinity. I have a 20 gal long tank in my shed. Not cycled... And can't use water from the DT considering id only have 9 gallons remaining. :(
     
  10. TheSaltwaterGuy

    TheSaltwaterGuy Banned

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    then maybe use the 55 gallon temporarily as a QT? dude if you wanna get the tang off your hands you HAVE to do something already; feeding it garlic won't cure it. and publix? you must live in Florida; none of those here in NY
     
  11. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator Staff Member

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    It is a dry heat, yeah right !
  12. elweshomayor

    elweshomayor Giant Squid

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    That tang is not going to get any better in that 29G...
    1 because he is in the tank where the infestation is and I'm sure you can't use copper or hyposalinity.
    2 because he is in a tank that is no way near what he needs so he is in constant stress, making the fight against the parasite even harder.
    And 3 because raising the temperature does nothing to speed the cycle of crypto. ( marine ich) this is true for fresh water ich but to my understanding it has little to no effect in crypto.

    What I would suggest is taking that tang back to the lfs if he would take it. Normally I would suggest people to keep the fish and try to make it better but given that you have him in a 29G biocube I'm assuming an lfs would do a better or same job at this point. IMO.

    Don't take my advice the wrong way, as I mean no harm for my comment :p
    Just my opinion on the issue.