Discussion in '3reef Site Polls' started by nemo79, Jul 26, 2006.
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I noticed that Toilet water is not an option...
cool clear water
RO/DI all the time, from the start.
I think that would fall in the tap water category Bruce!!!
covey, i thought i had a RO/DI unit but turns out to be just an RO unit. Can i just add a DI to it or should i just go out and purchase a whole unit like a Typhoon 3, or do you have any suggestion for around 200.00.
The "DI" part is just another canister (cartridge) which you probably could simply add on to your present setup.
RO/DI only, sometimes it is a pain getting twenty gallons home from the store but I've never considered tap.
A couple months ago my parents filled their turtle pond with tap water,, they usually distill it but this time they just topped it off, the next day every fish was dead, some very hardy cleaners and goldfish. A few days later they learned that the city had put something in the water (or it got in) and that it was lethal to fish, they weren't aware of the problem and ended up with a mess. Lesson learned...
The add on DI is fine. If you made the mistake I made when i bought my first RO. Mainly buying a drinking water RO from Lowe's they often come with lower grade RO membranes. The GE I got from Lowes' came with a 93% rejection rate RO membrane vs. the 98% plus rejection rate membranes that usally come in Reefkeeper grade systems. Basically it just ends up burning thru the DI resin that much faster.
Thats is why my new RO/DI is in the mail as we speak!
The bottled water I use is purified by reverse osmosis. From Wal-Mart at $0.68 per gallon.
1 word, Copper. Can't see it, can't smell it, but it'll kill your inverts. How about chloramine, arsenic, etc. The ocean doesn't appreciate it, nor does it help the corals grow, so IMO using the dirty river analogy doesn't hold water. We dump organophosphates into the water supply like no ones business. They don't help the ocean, just the opposite. Same with DDT, etc.
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