Hello everyone

Hi guys,

I bought a 2.5 feet tank, I have pump the water for 3 weeks +.

The fish seller say that on the 3 or 4th week, some of the fishes will die due to the bacteria in the water. And some of my fishes did die.

By this friday, my water will be a month old. Should be very safe to put fishes in right? They even introduce me to buy a bacteria to put in the tank every once a week to kill the harmful bacteria. And this friday i may go get some more clown fish and corals.

If you guys don't mind, can email me your views at [email protected] cause it will be easier for me to read from my mail. As I have limited time to get online. HOpe you guys can help and sorry for being so troublesome :'(

 

No problem inuki!

What we need, in addition to the fact that your tank is 30" long, is how your tank is set up; gallon capacity, sand, rock, filtration. In addition, what are the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and PH levels or readings and whether you intend on having a fish only or reef tank.

It is truly unfortunate that your LFS advised you to use fish to cycle your tank. As you are aware, it is like sending the fish into a gas chamber without a gas mask and is a rather gruesome thought. Live sand, live rock, and sometimes some raw shrimp can be used to cycle the tank and then fish/cleaning crew are added slowly once the water is stabalized.

We prefer to answer via posts to this thread, as opposed to e-mail, so that everyone visiting can gain from the advice/exchange.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

;D 8) :

 

[flash=468,60]http://www.3reef.com/fish/sitepics/threesteps3.swf[/flash]

Yes, please check in here when you can and post some more details about your setup. The exact size of the tank, your filters, fish, etc and we can help!

Thanks for joining!

 

[quote author=Craig_Manoukian link=board=Newbie;num=1058880761;start=0#1 date=07/22/03 at 11:55:27]No problem inuki!

What we need, in addition to the fact that your tank is 30" long, is how your tank is set up; gallon capacity, sand, rock, filtration.  In addition, what are the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and PH levels or readings and whether you intend on having a fish only or reef tank.

It is truly unfortunate that your LFS advised you to use fish to cycle your tank.  As you are aware, it is like sending the fish into a gas chamber without a gas mask and is a rather gruesome thought.  Live sand, live rock, and sometimes some raw shrimp can be used to cycle the tank and then fish/cleaning crew are added slowly once the water is stabalized.

We prefer to answer via posts to this thread, as opposed to e-mail, so that everyone visiting can gain from the advice/exchange.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

;D 8) :[/quote]

its ok, cause I am afraid that if someone reply to me and post the ans in the forum and there isn't any notification to me, I will miss out on this.

fish/cleaning crew are added slowly once the water is stabalized........ :'( i don't understand what you mean by this part...sorry, hope you can explain again in a more simple way thanks.

I didn't know that what they teach me is using the fish to stable down the water, if i know I won't be doing it. I have 3 live rocks, 3 corals in my tank. But my tank still seem quite empty. Not like what I always see the display outside, full of rocks and corals.

Someone told me that, once i add in the rocks and corals, I can't move them anymore, I have to fix them to a place, if i move them they will die and this in turn will mess up my water system too. Is it correct?

And how long do I need to change the water? How do I change it? Do I take out half of it (leaving the fishes, rocks & corals) and then add back another fresh half to it?

Over here, no one buy sea water, we all use sea salt and mix it up ourselves. We will have a thermometer to test the salt level, once it reach that level it means my water is ready.

Sorry, always have so much questions

 

[quote author=Matt Rogers link=board=Newbie;num=1058880761;start=0#2 date=07/22/03 at 12:54:26][flash=468,60]http://www.3reef.com/fish/sitepics/threesteps3.swf[/flash]

Yes, please check in here when you can and post some more details about your setup. The exact size of the tank, your filters, fish, etc and we can help!

Thanks for joining!

[/quote]

I have 2 air tube in my tank which pumps air and the bubbles are big. One filter which gives out some and lots of bubbles. But the filter which gives out the bubbbles tends to make my tank look "not that clear" with so much bubbles.

So I stuff up the hole, and there's only waves coming out from the filter. Am I right to do this? And what help does the bubbles give? So many really look so messy. Is it alright I stop the bubbles from the filter?

 

[quote author=Inuki link=board=Newbie;num=1058880761;start=0#3 date=07/23/03 at 05:56:38]

fish/cleaning crew are added slowly once the water is stabalized........ :'( i don't understand what you mean by this part...sorry, hope you can explain again in a more simple way thanks.[/quote]

From my experience I recommend 6 to 8 weeks for the tank to properly cycle and for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates to read zero. Then as you add livestock/bioload, you're tank will adjust to accomodate the increase in ammonia and denitrify to free nitrogen. This adding of corals, ivertabrates, and fish needs to be done slowly to avoid an ammonia spike which will be harmful or stressful to all tank inhabitants.

The rule of thumb for a reef tank is 1.5 to 2 lbs of live rock per gallon. I'm sure with only three rocks your tank looks empty.

Moving the corals will not kill them in and of itself. Adding uncycled live rock which will cause an ammonia spike can kill your corals. Any dying fish, coral, or invertabrate will cause an ammonia spike as the body decomposes and this is what they refer to as messing up your water system.

You can change water monthly, bi-weekly, or weekly and should n't change more than 10 - 20% unless you are exporting high concentrations of nitrates or phosphates. Water changes, or anything else, should not be done to a tank without testing.

I have a 29 gallon tank with LR, skimmer, and three damsels that I only change 5% of the water once per month. In my 80 gallon tank I change 5% of the water weekly. Each tank is different as you can see.

I mix synthetic sea salt to the appropriate specific gravity, 1.025, and then with my tank temperature of 80 degrees achieve a salinity of 36ppt which is the Salinity found in most of the Indo-Pacific region. I wix my salt about two hours before cleaning my tank.

Where is over here?

The only foolish question is the ione you didn't ask. We are always more than happy to answer those who want to learn and help themselves.

What size is your tank and do you have a protein skimmer? If you want to add live rock you will nedd to cure it or it will cause your tank to spike.

;D 8) :

[/quote]

 

What type of lighting do you have inuki?

 

I was wondering do you have any test kits? i didnt see this mentioned you should have ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate test kits. When the ammonia and nitrite are at 0 this is when you want to add your first animal. i think its best to be able to test the water yourself.

Welcome to the forum

 

[quote author=Craig_Manoukian link=board=Newbie;num=1058880761;start=0#5 date=07/23/03 at 10:33:22]

From my experience I recommend 6 to 8 weeks for the tank to properly cycle and for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates to read zero.  Then as you add livestock/bioload, you're tank will adjust to accomodate the increase in ammonia and denitrify to free nitrogen.  This adding of corals, ivertabrates, and fish needs to be done slowly to avoid an ammonia spike which will be harmful or stressful to all tank inhabitants.


The rule of thumb for a reef tank is 1.5 to 2 lbs of live rock per gallon.  I'm sure with only three rocks your tank looks empty.


Moving the corals will not kill them in and of itself.  Adding uncycled live rock which will cause an ammonia spike can kill your corals.  Any dying fish, coral, or invertabrate will cause an ammonia spike as the body decomposes and this is what they refer to as messing up your water system.


You can change water monthly, bi-weekly, or weekly and should n't change more than 10 - 20% unless you are exporting high concentrations of nitrates or phosphates.  Water changes, or anything else, should not be done to a tank without testing.  

I have a 29 gallon tank with LR, skimmer, and three damsels that I only change 5% of the water once per month.  In my 80 gallon tank I change 5% of the water weekly.  Each tank is different as you can see.

I mix synthetic sea salt to the appropriate specific gravity, 1.025, and then with my tank temperature of 80 degrees achieve a salinity of 36ppt which is the Salinity found in most of the Indo-Pacific region.  I wix my salt about two hours before cleaning my tank.


Where is over here?


The only foolish question is the ione you didn't ask.  We are always more than happy to answer those who want to learn and help themselves.

What size is your tank and do you have a protein skimmer?  If you want to add live rock you will nedd to cure it or it will cause your tank to spike.

;D 8) :[/quote]

what's a protein skimmer? What do I have to do to the new live rocsk I buy from the shop?

I aren't sure of the size of my tank, cause tank it bought by mum. All I know is she keeps saying 2.5 feet, think she means the length if I am not wrong.

 

[quote author=Craig_Manoukian link=board=Newbie;num=1058880761;start=0#6 date=07/23/03 at 10:35:00]What type of lighting do you have inuki?[/quote]

Hmm, not sure what colour is the light, its long and on the tube it says 20W, it seems white and it also seems light purple. The seller never say anything, didn't even tell me to add the reef (white board under the sand). All they care is about money