Do it yourself Denitrator

I know there is already a post of this but all the links when I was doing this were dead so I figured I'd put mine up there for anyone else to see.

I'll start by saying that this is 99% Tangsters design and I made a few changes simply because of skills that I lacked, so it is noted where I changed things but this is a slightly modified design that he has developed over the years.

Thanks for all your help Tangester!! :grinthumbs:

I'll keep the thread updated while the denitrator starts its work.

 

Supplies;

1-24” 3” pvc sold at Lowes – 3.67
1-24” 2” Pvc sold at Lowes – 2.53 (you can return)
2-PVC test end caps .59 ea – 1.18(I actually used end caps that ran 2.50 and 5.00 this is different from what Tangster uses and is probably not needed)
50’ of ¼ tubing for R/O units - 9.95 you can buy icemaker tubing at Lowes for about half of
this
1 box of bio balls Coralife Dr. Foster Smith – 9.99
2-Fittings to get hose through pvc and sealed $10 from Tangster
1-“J” acrylic tube to siphon water from tank $3
2-Optional ball valve for easy disconnect 6.48 each – 12.96



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SUPPLIES


Once you have all the supplies you have to star by rolling the ¼ tubing around the 2” piece of PVC. This is just used to help get it into the 3” piece without clogging the center area. I fought this for a while and found that the easiest was to handle it is by inserting the pvc into the center of the tubing coil. Secure one end of the tubing with tape then start rolling the pipe so that the tubing is coiled onto it. Just use one hand to guide the tubing keeping it compact while spinning the pipe with the other.

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Once all the tubing is on secure the end again with tape. Also I found that once this was complete drop the whole get up into the tub and cover it with hot water while you continue with the next step. This will help reset the memory in the tubing coil.

Now we need to get he 3” tube ready for our coil. Check the height of your tubing and make sure that it is going to work where you need it. I had room but if you need to get it smaller I think that you could double roll the tubing on the inside of the coil. Once you know the size is ok continue, do not glue the bottom on yet.

Next you have to install the input and output connectors into the 3” PVC. The intake can be drilled into the top end cap. Make sure that it is a bit smaller then the fitting so that you can tap it for the fitting. You may have to buy a tap and die, make sure that it is for ¼ SAE threading, needs to match your fitting. The output can be installed the same way, I opted to install it just under the end cap to make sure that most the air is pumped out of the unit when running.

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Now the tubing can be installed. Retrieve the tubing out of the tub and dry off, do not remove the tape or tubing from the pipe. Slide the combination of 2” tubing and pipe into the 3” PVC. At the bottom you can remove the tape and then put it back into the 3” PVC DO NOT SECURE END CAP YET. Make sure to get all the tape out. Now back at the top of the unit remove the tape so that the tubing comes loose of the 2” PVC and slide out this piece of PVC. You should now have the ¼ tubing on the inside of the 3” PVC and it should expand to keep itself wound.



Now the tubing can be installed. Retrieve the tubing out of the tub and dry off, do not remove the tape or tubing from the pipe. Slide the combination of 2” tubing and pipe into the 3” PVC. At the bottom you can remove the tape and then put it back into the 3” PVC DO NOT SECURE END CAP YET. Make sure to get all the tape out. Now back at the top of the unit remove the tape so that the tubing comes loose of the 2” PVC and slide out this piece of PVC. You should now have the ¼ tubing on the inside of the 3” PVC and it should expand to keep itself wound.

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The top end of the ¼ tubing needs to be secure to the input fitting. I used heat, super glue and silicon to make sure it was connected and would not come undone or leak. The unit is ready to be sealed but I would test the tubing by pumping some water through the tubing, when the water flows out hold your thumb over it and see if your input holds. Wait about 20 minutes to make sure things are dry before testing it. Once it is tested you can seal up the bottom and drop in the bio-balls then seal up the top. This is where I varied a bit with the end caps, I just couldn’t get the PVC smooth enough to get a tight seal, I eventually did get the wafer caps on but had to use plumbers GOOP and didn’t know if that would be ok in the tank so I cut it off and used what you see in the pictures. It’s best to drop the bio balls in one at a time to make sure they don’t clog up. All that is left to do is to run the siphon line to the tank and the return line to your sump where the water can drip into the sump.

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Seems like a cool diy, but for the cost why not just buy a small pump and phosban reactor 150 with some nitrate absorbing media and call it a day?

 

Because that is not as fun.

Nice work Jake!

 

plus that costs money to replace.

 

Not nearly as fun, and thanks.

Very true, but cost really isn't a concern on this project.

The main reason I decided not to use the reactors is that I don't really trust things that "absorb." I'm to lazy and forgetful and my experience has always been that they bite me in the ass. Carbon is the first thing I tried that with and I would wash and try to reuse...and then forget about it. I always think of a sponge and wonder what happens when it gets full or if you squeeze it?!?!

This being biologocal it should, at least in theory, adjust to the needs of the tanks and cylce accordingly.

We'll see but I believe in Tangster!

 

Awesome thread Jakerupe, makes me wanna re-do my coil denitrator. Great step by step instructions and pics. Great job. Luna

 

wow that looks cool, and how much more do you have to pay to get one made for you?? lol.

 

Talk to Tangster, I believe he will make them for you. Don't ask me to decipher the PM though

Thanks Luna.