DIY 400 watt Metal Halide

I have wired in a cheap timer into the signal wires from the switch panels. I use two of them, one for the MH and another for the VHO. They cost me less than $5.00 at Wal-Mart.

The inside of my distribution box has 14/3 on a 15 amp 240v breaker. The copper goes to the ground bar, the black and white attach to the breaker. The breaker attaches to both live buss bars. The ground from the ground bar attaches to the box, the box is attached via metal to the transformers. The ground then goes from the box to the bulb mounting brackets.

 

Sounds like you have them correctly grounded Might want to look in to adding better timers those are not that good for the draw I know what they say but They can over heat when loaded on M/H's I'd look at a 40 amp paragon timer an be sure they won't over work my transformers.. But if its working and you feel O.K with it let it ride..

 

The timers see very litte amprage. They only power the coils on the relays.

 

What relays did you use ? You are doing a lot of unnecessary raising the resistance of the lights power . Every time you break the circuit through a contactor point you open the door for problems thats why they got away from breaker points in old car distributors .. But if its working use it till it burns out.. Then get a high amp rated timer.. Like used on a pool pump or outdoor flood lights ..That little White Rogers or Essex's stevco what ever brand you used contactor relay was not designed for that job really.. Do they feel warm after a hr or so running time ?

 

The relays are 10 amp, 4 pole, double throw. They do not feel warm to the touch. I have been watching this on a daily basis, I was afraid that the heat in the garage may have impacted their performance. I reached up and touch them after work and they are not any warmer than the wood they are mounted to. If I get the life from these relays that I get from my 1966 Mustang then I am set. I also have a couple of extras. They cost $5.00 each.
Part of the reason that I am using them is I wanted to start 120v canopy fans when the MH came on. This is working for me now, if I do not get adequate life from the relays then I will look for something different.
I will post if they fail too soon.

 

I have not shown the tank or how it has looked, now that the lights have burned in. At first my XM 400 watt 10k's looked yellow. They would overpower my 640 watt vho actinic's and still make the tank look yellow. After about a month the tank looks like I expected a crisp white.

 

Beautiful tank. Looks great...

 

Try the SPS 400 w 1400K you will love the look Thats all I use now at home and at work.. replacing the ushios as they die off on thr sps still like the old Iwakie 6500's over corals for grow out then to the VHO and 1400 to add color..

I must say your tank looks great though buddy good job with it..

 

Thanks all.

If any one is interested how I got this far, I have a build thread at Dngspots Tank and Stand Build. - Wichita Aquarium Club Forums I am not finished with the cabinet yet, I have been put on hold by my wife. Must finish the house remodel.

 

I dont mean to hi-jack this thread, but its on the topic i have a question about but cant find the answer i'm looking for....
When it comes to wiring 400 watt metal halides, what is the best method?

I have just aquired two 400 watt halides, I opened the ballast box and they do provide additional wires (I'm assuming its for 120v, 208v, 240v, 277v, there is a sticker on it referencing those voltages). Currently they have a 120v cord connected.
If i run 240v over to the location of where the DT will be set-up how to I plug them into a timer if they have a 240v cord? Sorry if this is a poor explanation of my question.. I'd like to eventually have them plugged into a controller. If someone wouldn't mind could they help me out please? I know very little when It comes to electricity.