algae domination

Discussion in 'Algae' started by mvp, Dec 3, 2010.

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  1. mvp

    mvp Astrea Snail

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    in my 30 gallon reef, i dont know what happened but theres literally over 20 kinds of algae in my tank; covering my glass,rocks and sand. so i decided to do a simple black out well so far its not working. i also manually removed most of the easy to get algae, but still didnt work. i ofcourse transferred my corals from the 30 to my larger 90 gallon reef. so i was wondering should i just start the whole tank over? i mean i dont see getting rid of this algae is possible its a total wreck. i have nothing in the 30 gallon besides live rock and algae and ton of copepods. so is it a good idea to just start the tank over? i also check my water parameters and everything is identicle towards my 90 gallon which has little to no algae in it. the parameters are:
    1.023 salinity
    8.2 ph
    78'F
    alkalinity 8 dKH
    0 ammonia
    0 nitrite
    0 nitrate
    0 phos
    390 calcium
     
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  3. Va Reef

    Va Reef Giant Squid

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    well if its a new tank, its just part of a new, cycling tank.
     
  4. mvp

    mvp Astrea Snail

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    the 30 gallon is 7 months old
     
  5. ReefRaider

    ReefRaider Astrea Snail

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    No need to start the tank over. How many hours a day are your lights on? It could be that. Or, to get rid of the already-existing algae, you could get a dwarf angel probably, they graze pretty fast. Or possibly a small tang. Miniature hermit crabs do a good job too. If it's really bad, there's always a sea slug or two. (not the colorful ones, they're toxic) but as to what caused it, I can't think of anything except overdoing your lights, high phosphates, or not enough water flow.
     
  6. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator

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    It is a dry heat, yeah right !
    A picture of tank with a FTS and some of the problem algaes would be good.

    Some algaes can be decreased through interventions such as reduced photoperiods, GFO, water changes, increase in flow, alterations in mag level, and actions by members of the cuc. Some algaes like turf and caulerpa need to be mannually removed.
     
  7. mvp

    mvp Astrea Snail

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    my lights are on for only about 10 hours a day, using actinic and 10k bulbs, i recently changed them so they are brand new. i been trying to solve this algae crisis for quiet some time and nothing happens. i had about a dozen electric blue hermit crabs, 3 emerald crabs and nerites but i had them in the tank for like 5 months already and they barely had a impact. i dont feed or dose the 30 gallon anymore as any coral, invert and fish has been relocated to my 90 gallon. i cant post any pictures at the moment because im not home but i can id some of the nuisance algae i definitley have.

    diatoms
    green slime/ cyano
    red slime/ cyano
    hair algae
    very little of bubble algae
    red bubble algae
    coralline(im fine with)
    Bryopsis pennata (not sure of the commonly known name)
    Caulerpa lentillifera (something very similar to it)
    Centroceras clavulatum
    film algae
    byropsis sp.
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2010
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  9. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator

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    It is a dry heat, yeah right !
    Have you test your water source for phosphates and TDS?

    All the cyano maybe related to problems with flow and excess nutrients.
    The GHA should have run it's course by now unless again phosphates are being introduced.

    The Bryopsis can be dealt with by raising your magnesium level with kent magnusium. Need to test mag level and try to raise it to at least 1500 ppm and possibly a lot higher, but start low and go slow.

    Red bubble and green bubble, addition of emerald crabs and manual removal.

    Caulerpa: that is going to be to be removed manually.

    You might consider trying some chaeto to compete for nutrients as well.
     
  10. Va Reef

    Va Reef Giant Squid

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    as i recall new lights cause excess algae or something like that :p
     
  11. mvp

    mvp Astrea Snail

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    my phosphates are at zero and i have perfect waterflow, i have a 450 gph power head, protein skimmer, and a very powerful outtake from a canister filter. instead of doing all this, is there really any draw back from starting the tank over? i mean i dont care about how long it will take to get it back up...
     
  12. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator

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    It is a dry heat, yeah right !
    If you want to go that route by all means do it. My only concern it that the cause of the algaes such as the cyano and the GHA may re-appear.

    You could also just scrub the h#% out of the rock and avoid a large cycle as well.

    If you start all over though as least you know the caulerpa and the bryopsis will be gone.