90 Gallon Build Thread

Discussion in 'I made this!' started by ReefSparky, Jun 1, 2008.

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  1. Daniel072

    Daniel072 Giant Squid

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    are you going to leave the front of the stand open?? no doors?? the doors are open on my stand all the time anyway.
     
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  3. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator Staff Member

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    The front and sides, yes. For now at least.
     
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  4. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Sump/'Fuge is finished. I'm on my way now to Home Depot to pick up some 1" PVC, some 90's, a Tee connector, a couple of 45's, some PVC glue, and a female adapter to connect my return pump.

    The sump/'fuge is two-sided. The ends are the input from the tank. The right large chamber is for the lit deep sand bed and chaeto area. The left large chamber is for the skimmer and reactor. The center is the return. I'm going to have to fill the 90G for a dummy run, only to find the water level in the return area of the sump so I can drain everything again, and have the sump drilled for the float valve for the RO/DI.

    Here are some pics for Luna and everyone else. ;D;D

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    One last detail, the screw holes I filled with wood filler and sanded it down to conceal the appearance. It came out pretty clean. I'm leaving the stand as is, so the exposed wood has to look nice.

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  5. Zectra

    Zectra Feather Duster

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    Looking smooth there Sparky! Can't wait to see how this tank comes out! Flippin' sweet setup as well!!

    Great job! =)

    Zectra.

    BUH-BAMM!!
     
  6. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Thanks, Zectra!

    Onward. . .

    I'm back with the goods. Time for plumbing. I've decided to use unions and ball valves to give me more control come maintenance time.

    Back when I was on a job doing a lot of PVC underground ductbanks, I got a sweet Ridgid PVC cutter. It's coming in very handy.

    Here's the progress.

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    Lest we not forget breakfast.

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    I'll be back in about half an hour!
     
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  7. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Overflow plumbed and complete. I'm very happy I used unions--I simply removed the whole assembly every time a new piece was glued on. This allowed me to avoid mistakes, having to be a contortionist, and most importantly, spilling PVC glue on the carpet. My wife tolerates a lot, but PVC glue on the carpet; I would be single faster than you can say, "single?"

    The 45s allow for some forward and backward movement of the sump when it becomes necessary. To achieve less flow into the refugium side (the right side) instead of reducing from 1" to 3/4" PVC, I put another 45 on that side, and that will restrict flow slightly. My old refugium had its own overflow box in the 55G, and I thought the copious flow didn't hurt anything. Instead of a large difference like 80%/20% flow ratio for the sump/'fuge; I think the 'fuge will receive more like 30 to 40% of the water. I think that'll be fine.

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    The return pump plumbing is next. . .. .
     
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  9. Tangster

    Tangster 3reef Sponsor

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    Looks good a little overly complicated for me :) I never saw the need for baffles and wasting all that space that could be better used but thats me .

    Looks really good with how you put it all together and the stand and all looks really nice , What I would do is got some acoustic ceiling panels and lined the inside of the stand to absorb 90'% of the amplified sound from water and pumps and splashing and with no front door ? I'd line them anyways makes for a lot less sound and harmonics and a broken connection at the pump back to the tank also will lower the sound. Oh also if you want to stop bubbles on the lines you have just blasting downward right into the sump Take them both to the very bottom add 2 90's to form a U looking back vertical and then a short stub of pipe into each one to be just above the normal running level of the sump and the same for the sand area of the refugium just bury those 90's and put the stubs top just above the level of the sand in the fuge .. Puts the bubbles on top and will not create a white water mixing situation This is where 90% of all the bubbles comes from
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2008
  10. geekdafied

    geekdafied 3reef Sponsor

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    I was about to say thats going to be loud! haha

    Good job bro!
     
  11. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator Staff Member

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    If my lengths are right, the ends of those pipes should be under water. That's what I'm shooting for, at least.

    The nice thing about PVC is that it only takes a little cement and a couple of bucks worth of fittings to change things around.

    Tanster, I've read in Otty's thread about the "J" of which you speak. I thought it was a great idea. To take it even further, he was talking about increasing the pipe diameter on the ascending portion after the 90 to eliminate any "water fountain" effect. It's a great idea!

    If I have any noise issues, I'll definitely do it.

    Glad to have the input, fellas.
     
  12. Tangster

    Tangster 3reef Sponsor

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    Its more about even smooth flows then noise But the smoother and easier the water flows the less sound it makes you will be creating a gurgling problem from the back pressure . the increased opening is also a good deal its acts and a expansion chamber like a pistole silencer even it just allows room for the gas or water to expand and lower the pressures and the noise is a plus . I'd add the 90's now you'll find it well worth the extra effort.. I'd never not plumb one like that.. Its easier to get it right the first time rather then when its all wet and salty .. I'd make the changes now But thats me :)