50 Gal Narrow tank

Back from a long absence, and in a very DIY mood.

Looking to build a tank as much as possible from scratch. There will be exceptions, like pumps, chillers, AC units, and multi-way valves... things that I cannot reasonably construct myself.

I do not consider skimmers, * reactors, Tanks, Stands, or anything that doesn't require more specialized equipment than a table saw and a heat gun beyond constructibility.

To be sure, I don't expect to be able to save a lot of money that way... that's not why I'm doing the DIY thing. I want to control how things look and work better than if I purchased everything.

Attached are some of my first CAD documents for this project, made in Google Sketchup. The tank measures 120cmx45cmX45cm, with a planned 40cm water level to allow some lip at the top for wave motion, floor wobbling, etc.

Found some great structural silicone specially for glass bonding (aquariums are listed as a possible application by the MFG) and the base is made primarily out of 2x4s. Not sure if it needs additional reinforcement. Still looking for calculations on that part.

The octopus piping is primarily to keep returns traveling ABOVE WATER LEVEL at some point in their run, thereby allowing the world's most simple siphon break, a drill bit.

The concept is a division of the tank that's traversible by livestock, from deep water lighting and current conditions (on the left) to shallow water lighting and current conditions. The right half has 150W (2W/l, about 6W/gal) of 10k, the left has 70W (1W/l, about 3/gal) of 14k. Putting the drain piping in the middle helps facilitate this division, and keeps the look cleaner (one overflow to hide instead of 2)

The plumbing, if you look too closely (adjustment valves are not in yet) has an OM Squirt that constantly cycles the right 3, plus the top left pump returns, but the left 2 pipes (which point diagonally up and back, and diagonally down and forward) are constantly running at a somewhat reduced velocity.

I'm sure everyone can guess what tubular looking object is the pump. The big box on the right in the sump area is a cooler. I have not "virtua-plubmed" it yet, though the outside dimensions are accurate. The J tube from the drain pipe of the tank is what I have scheduled to provide flow for it and the skimmer that I'm still working on. Skimmer is a recirculating design that takes a gravity feed in and gives a gravity feed out, again, from the J-Tube from the drain.

The one thing that just occurred to me is that things could theoretically live in that J-tube. That and things settling at the bottom would not be friendly to my flow rate. I need a clean out for that.

Anything major I'm missing? Besides supports for the lights and half the sump? ;-)

 

Looks like an awesome undertaking!!!

Am anxious to see results.

I can only sit back and be in wonder about people that can even consider taking on such a project!!!

I become absolutely dangerous if given a tool of any kind...

Think I will send some Karma your way just for thinking about doing...;D


Please keep us posted on progress.


Good Luck!




Scott

 

You are a cad master! 8)

Curious about your comment about the returns being high and the drill bit.
The returns don't necessarily have to be high in order to achieve the siphon break. You should need the drill hole right above or below the waterline.

Am I missing something here?

 

wow! thats crazy, i want to be able to do something like that!!!

 

Great graphics, looks good, keep us posted, with pics.;D

 

What thickness is the glass or acrylic you are planning on using?

 

Question and Answers

Matt: You're exactly right about the siphon break needing to be at or just below the water line, but the bottom of the pipe has to be above the water line or else the water just flows over by gravity. The comment about the pipes being high = higher than the water line, which is "ugly" (since they stick out of the water) but safer. If you notice in my cad drawings, the "octopus" (hexapus?) pipes go over the glass that forms the overflow at the back of the tank, thus achieving the "higher than water line" status necessary to assure a clean siphon break if the proper holes are present.

Lunatik: I'm already halfway through building the stand. I am taking pictures, but will wait until I have the finished product (at least as far as the frame being finished) before posting. This is going to be a relatively slow build, as I'm on an (intentionally) limited budget, as I'm viewing the process as being as important as the end goal, and so I want to take time building it.

Crabby Jim: As for the glass thickness, I'm planning on using 9mm non-tempered float glass. That gives a safety rating of 5 on the big 2 sides, and a safety rating of 4 on the bottom glass (!!!) which will be almost entirely supported except in the drain area, by an 18mm premade table surface, and probably some filler. 9mm is also a nice number if i think of the silicone as 1mm thickness, which is not unreasonable.

As for the CAD Graphics comments: Try Google Sketchup. It's seriously the easiest CAD program out there. The "pipes" are the hardest part normally, but they're not horribly difficult in sketchup, as you can just draw lines, then "pull" a circle over the lines to create the pipes. (Look at the stand piping pictures from the 4 way - you can see the lines down the middle of EVERY pipe in that one) It's one of the more unique features sketchup has. The most difficult part left after the pipes are made easy is lining everything up on the parts that aren't "exact fit", mainly the underside plumbing from the 4 way, the drain, and the pump.

Off to work. I'll finish up the stand this weekend and post pics.

 

Theres a sense of pride when you build your own equipment. Dont worry about the time it takes you, my stand took me almost 4 weeks to build b/c of limited time. Remember, Rome wasnt built in one day. I am however, expecting some pics;D Luna

 

Sump Design Principles

It just occurred to me today that I'm planning on a 10x turnover, all of which is going through the sump, but I don't have any supplemental flow plans to support things like SPS above that, and yet increasing the flow rate will make for quite the turbulent sump (Fuges will be attached to the main tank, nothing in the sump) that could possibly create quite a lot of noise. Thoughts? Since I'm not planning on putting a fuge in the sump, but rather just planning to have the sump for water capacity and equipment, (in case the skimmer overflows, etc) is there a down side to running a high flow rate through a sump, assuming it's properly designed?

I'm hoping the "ramp" coming down from the J-tube will minimize water splashing noise a bit by allowing air and water to separate before entering the sump, not to mention the J-tube itself doing so.

I read someone today suggest 40-80x turnover for SPS?