Yellow-eyed tang w/the Ich

Discussion in 'ASAP' started by oeb, Feb 26, 2008.

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  1. Bogie

    Bogie Snowflake Eel

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    My blue tang has responded well to Stop Parasites made by Chem-Marin. I increased the temp from 78 to ~81* to speed up the ich life cycle and haven't kept the lights on as much - (but this is driving my anemone crazy b/c now he's moving all over the place). My clowns and damsels don't seem to have any indications of ich, and I plan to continue treatment for 2 weeks. But if you do this treatment, make sure to monitor you pH daily, it will most likely drop, and you'll have to have some buffer on hand to add to the tank. I plan on getting a cleaner shrimp, more snails and crabs, and a algae blenny. Although I'd like to fix the ich problem before adding them, I don't want to fix it, only to have an outbreak possibly happen all over again when I add the rest to the tank later.
    Good Luck w/ your purple tang and keep posting updates on what you're doing.
     
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  3. Tangster

    Tangster 3reef Sponsor

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    Simple true Ich it comes and goes. If the fish is eating and not showing any signs of an infection then just let it be .. Tanks all have ich.. I have on many occasions to have a tank run along 4 or 5 yrs and longer nothing new was added or nothing changed And to just have the parasite to be on a fish or two.. Fish if left alone and not be stressed even more from being chased around a tank to only be tossed in to freshwater that slowly suffocates them or have this and that thrown at them will slough the parasite off where then the Flagellate falls off then starts its life cycle all over again.

    But white every exposure the healthy fish gains a bit more immunity to the pest. Wit any new additions like you said you added the free gifts can tweak and stress the fish causing it to lower its immune system lower somewhat Like humans with a simple cold.. Thats all ich is. And the best and most effective cure I ever found to treat the true Cryptocaryon problem was just raising the tanks temp. to the lower 80's and even cutting the light's off for a day or two This works for myself 99% of the time . And if not then I use a quinine sulfate or formalin dip with tank water.

    But there other deadly disease that many not knowingly call or thin to be ich but its not .. The hobbyist has to learn what to look for and then how to treat the problem.. But if your fish has several larger white specks like a grain of salt or sugar size then its more then likely ich now if its white really small dusting like speck its not.. That's marine velvet Amyloodinium ocellatum and not Ich or Ichthyophthirius But in the last couple of yrs there seems to be a newer mutant strain of Cryptocaryon hitting large commercial fisheries and
    This strain of Ich is responsible for very high fish deaths in the business right now. It looks a lot larger than usual and then it's produces a slime that covers the fish and starves it for oxygen. The fish will die with it's mouth open..

    But the single best treatment I ever found for any treatment of Ich is the old quinine sulfate and or formalin ..Both are tricky to use.. All white specks where not created equal. :( So learn what to look for and identify the pest/problem odisease and know what you are dealing with then treat it.
     
  4. Tangster

    Tangster 3reef Sponsor

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  5. glblguy

    glblguy Spaghetti Worm

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  6. Bogie

    Bogie Snowflake Eel

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  7. oeb

    oeb Astrea Snail

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    glblguy, nice article, thanks for sharing. nice blog too btw.

    Bogie, I thought about a UV sterilizer too, but I came to the same conclusion. I forget where I read it, but it talked about how UV can sterilize water too well, removing both good and bad.

    I never heard of this Chem-Marin stuff, though I'm looking into it now. The picture two pages deep has me convinced already! MY PLEDGE TO YOU
     
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  9. glblguy

    glblguy Spaghetti Worm

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    thanks oeb I really appreciate that...spread the word ;)
     
  10. oeb

    oeb Astrea Snail

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    Nevermind
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2008