Need help choosing LED colors/ channel configuration for Retrofit

Discussion in 'RapidLED' started by Astrick117, Jul 2, 2013.

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  1. Marshall O

    Marshall O Giant Squid

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    I agree. You have a few more LEDs to work with, but here is what I went with on my build for my 28:

    http://www.3reef.com/forums/rapidled/jbj-28-retrofit-kit-color-combo-144120.html#post1452931

    Note that my strings were built with max mA of individual LED in mind vs. color. With yours, you would need to run string A at a max of 1000mA due to the CB, and string B at a max of 700mA due to the Red/TV (UV). You may already be aware of this, but just throwing that out there. Otherwise, I think you have a nice selection of LEDs there :)
     
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  3. 1.0reef

    1.0reef Giant Squid

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    That's the exact opposite lol
     
  4. 1.0reef

    1.0reef Giant Squid

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  5. ingtar_shinowa

    ingtar_shinowa Giant Squid

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    I know
     
  6. Astrick117

    Astrick117 Stylophora

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    Any thoughts on the best way to configure the channels given the limits for each type of LED?
     
  7. Astrick117

    Astrick117 Stylophora

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    Since I will have this on a mixed reef, would I ever need to run them at full capacity anyway? I'm going to have 24 LED's over a 20x20 cube with all of my SPS at the very top of the rock.
     
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  9. Marshall O

    Marshall O Giant Squid

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    I doubt it. I still have my 20 LEDs on 50% (although it is time to bump them up!). So even though you will be running most below their max mA at 100%, since you will never get to 100%, it should not matter. I think the strings you laid out will work just fine.
     
  10. Rapid LED

    Rapid LED 3reef Sponsor

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    Sorry for the late reply. The NW has a slightly lower color temperature so it will be less of a "crisp" color, so depending on your preference it may or may not be better for you. From a color spectrum standpoint, it does a better job of covering the red spectrum than the cool white does. Since you already have a red in your set-up we don't really feel that the NW is necessary, which is why we went with CW in our Onyx unit.

    Regarding how to wire the LEDs, I'd definite run the UV with the red since the both max out at 700mA. The green/blue max at 1.0A, so any string with those LEDs will need to be run at 700mA (ie. with the UV/red) or at 1.0A max. 24 LEDs is definitely enough for your tank so no need to run the LEDs at max anyways. I personally also have a 29g Oceanic Biocube and am only running 20 LEDs (this was our old kit), with one string at 700mA and one at 1050mA.
     
  11. Astrick117

    Astrick117 Stylophora

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    Ok, so is it possible to run those 16 LEDs (RB, CB, Red, Green, UV) on one circuit at 700mA and the remaining 8 LEDs (CW) on another at 1.2A. Or will I need to move the CB's off the 1st circuit to get under 14 LED's for the circuit and run the CW and CB circuit at 1.0mA?
     
  12. Rapid LED

    Rapid LED 3reef Sponsor

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    Likely not, the driver will max out at 48V (plus a 5% buffer). At 16 LEDs you'll likely be over that amount (even the buffer), though there is a variance on each LED which makes giving a definite answer impossible. If 16 LEDs doesn't work then 15 likely will, so you could always just move one royal blue to the cool white string and run that string at 1.2A. You're correct though if you want to run the blue with cool white then keep the string at under 1.0A, if you're running RB instead of blue then 1.2A is okay.