moderate cyano outbreak

I recently started seeing some cyano come back after a long absence. I got a frag of mystic sunset acropora(I think), and phrased light to the area to encourage growth. While the strategy worked on the coal, the cyano also showed up in limited areas. I'm fairly sure that if I back of the light, the cyano will eventually go away. Just not sure how well the coral will grow? Any advice?
SG: 1.025
Ph:8.0
Nitrate: 5
Phos: .02
Alk: 10
Ca: 450-460
Mg: 1360
I have 3 kessil 150's over a 40B. This light is about 5 inches from the surface and the coral is about 7 inches below the surface. Thanks in advance.

 

what about just shortening the light time? do you run any phosphate absorbing media?

 

Actually, I had cut the photo period for the past few days while aclimating a new stylo that is in proximity to the light. Didn't seem to make any difference. That is amazing stuff, this morning with the lights out, there is no sign of the cyano except the side facing a far off window. I'm sure as the day wears on it will all come back. My guess is that I could get it to go away by drastically reducing light to the area and reducing nutrients, but I'm wondering what that might do to the acro? Any thoughts? I do have phosguard in the overflow.

 

I wouldn't think you'd want to reduce the lighting for a longer period. Do you run carbon as well?

 

Sorry about the long delay in responding. I do use phosguard in the overflow but no carbon. I change 10%/week of the water and that seems to take care of most problems. However, I've recently made the switch to reef crystals. I'm beginning to think that may be the reason for the limited cyano outbreak. I may start tapering that back to 50/50 rc & io and see if the cyano starts receding. One of the problems I'm experiencing is the drop in ca with each water change. Back when I was using io strait, the ca tended to be in the high 300 range

 

What about water flow? Removing nutrients will definitely choke it out but I have also had success with pointing a power head at the outbreak site. I know I like to move things around when adding corals, maybe your water flow patterns changed and that area became a little stagnant?

I have tried doing phosgaurd in the overflow before. It helps but it isn't the most efficient way of getting rid of those phosphates. It tends to clump easily in the bag and stop working pretty quickly after adding it from my experience.

 

Thanks for the tips K. I'll definitely keep them in mind. Flow to the area is good. The extra light to the area and the recent change to reef crystals is what I suspect. Phosphates did measure .05 yesterday so it's time to change the bag. I may even add a second bag. I guess the other option for phosguard is a reactor?

 

Reactor all the way !!!!!

 

OK, i've had killer cyanno for months with little to no free nutrients. This stuff is fully capable of spreading in a no nutrient system simply by bind the nutrients n its matting. I believe some case only manual removal accompanied by improved water quality will help. My next plan is to spend an hour or two with all my filter socks slurping in up from my tank. (basting of the sand bed with a turkey baster since vacuuming the sand bed has not really helped)

I am also going to try the new KZ product for Red Slime control. It looks to be an enzyme base not an antibiotic.

 

Have you tried reducing light and feeding?