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02-27-2008, 07:25 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Peppermint Shrimp
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Seattle area Age: 36
Posts: 448
| Quick top off question I need to add about 2 gallons to top off. I've run tapwater through my fridge filter to remove the heavy metals and I've treated it to remove chlorines and such. I have ocean pure salt, is there a formula to determine tablespoons full of salt to add per gallon. I have 50 gallon bags that aren't labeled and I'm not sure it's worth the trouble to weigh them out if there is an easier way. Thanks. |
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02-27-2008, 07:38 PM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Millepora
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Columbus, Indiana Age: 23
Posts: 912
| Don't know about your measurment question, but check out this post by ReefSparky about getting an RO/DI unit. It was posted on the "tap water" thread that is active right now.
"I think in this hobby if you can't afford some basic necessities, it might be best to wait it out until you can. This might not be the pasttime to start on a shoestring budget. If you skimp in the beginning, oftentimes you'll be paying for it later by being forced into buying what you should have in the first place.
Here's a basic example. Say for instance you invest in great lighting, but you don't get an RO/DI setup. Instead you decide to use water conditioner that's $10 a bottle at say, two bottles a month. Ammonia, nitrite and chloramines are no issue, just as the product promises. However phosphates from your tapwater aren't removed by this product, and lo and behold, after about six months you develop a tremendous hair algae problem.
You read around and out of desperation you purchase 30 snails for $60 bucks. Then you hear that there's this miracle liquid out there that will solve the problem for about $40 in treatments. There went $160 bucks that could've gone towards that RO/DI setup.
A phos reactor and really good protein skimmer can be $40 and $400 respectively. A decent RO/DI setup can be had for $169 if you shop around. If you purchase these three things in the very beginning, you're guaranteed an easier go at it. Another plus is the wonderful lack of expensive fires that require immediate extinguishing.
Patience is the key here, if you can scrape up some funds over time and THEN start this whole ball rolling, you'll be glad you did.
Good luck   " _________ 55 gallon slowly growing reef aquarium, 85 lbs. live rock, 2 1/2" sandbed, 1 False Percula Clown, 1 Sixline Wrasse, 1 Mandarin Goby, Tetratec PF500 filter, 2 110 watt URI Super Actinic VHO actinics, 2 250 watt metal halides with Reef Optix 2 reflectors powered by Blue Wave 3 ballast, born 1/3/08 My Tank Thread My Tank Video |
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02-27-2008, 07:40 PM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Millepora
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Columbus, Indiana Age: 23
Posts: 912
| Oh, and if your salinity is good, topping off should be done with water only, no salt. Unless your talking about adding water to start your tank. Just topping off because of evaporation, the salt is already in the water. |
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02-27-2008, 07:45 PM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Montipora Capricornis
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: South Florida Age: 42
Posts: 1,045
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty I need to add about 2 gallons to top off. I've run tapwater through my fridge filter to remove the heavy metals and I've treated it to remove chlorines and such. I have ocean pure salt, is there a formula to determine tablespoons full of salt to add per gallon. I have 50 gallon bags that aren't labeled and I'm not sure it's worth the trouble to weigh them out if there is an easier way. Thanks. | Instant Ocean says 1.5 lbs for a 5 gallon bucket. That would be 4.8 oz. for a gallon. Check salinity before adding with a refractometer if you have one.
And like bmshehan said, don't add saltwater to replace evaporated water. Technically, "top off" water is water used to replace evaporated tank water.
For water changes and filling a new tank, you'd use mixed saltwater.
_________
90G. Kent Phos Reactor running carbon and PhosBan, Coralife 225 Skimmer, Typhoon 5 Stage RO/DI, 20 Gal Sump/Refugium with Chaetomorpha lit opposite daylight cycle. Coralife 2x150MH, 10K + 2x96W PC Actinics, Ecotech Vortech propeller pump, Hydor Koralia #2. |
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02-27-2008, 09:05 PM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Peppermint Shrimp
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Seattle area Age: 36
Posts: 448
| Quote:
Originally Posted by bmshehan Don't know about your measurment question, but check out this post by ReefSparky about getting an RO/DI unit. It was posted on the "tap water" thread that is active right now.
"I think in this hobby if you can't afford some basic necessities, it might be best to wait it out until you can. This might not be the pasttime to start on a shoestring budget. If you skimp in the beginning, oftentimes you'll be paying for it later by being forced into buying what you should have in the first place.
Here's a basic example. Say for instance you invest in great lighting, but you don't get an RO/DI setup. Instead you decide to use water conditioner that's $10 a bottle at say, two bottles a month. Ammonia, nitrite and chloramines are no issue, just as the product promises. However phosphates from your tapwater aren't removed by this product, and lo and behold, after about six months you develop a tremendous hair algae problem.
You read around and out of desperation you purchase 30 snails for $60 bucks. Then you hear that there's this miracle liquid out there that will solve the problem for about $40 in treatments. There went $160 bucks that could've gone towards that RO/DI setup.
A phos reactor and really good protein skimmer can be $40 and $400 respectively. A decent RO/DI setup can be had for $169 if you shop around. If you purchase these three things in the very beginning, you're guaranteed an easier go at it. Another plus is the wonderful lack of expensive fires that require immediate extinguishing.
Patience is the key here, if you can scrape up some funds over time and THEN start this whole ball rolling, you'll be glad you did.
Good luck   " | We plan on getting an RO/DI setup, just trying to work it into the budget. Probably will buy a unit in early april. Any recommendations for around $300 or less?
Thanks again for the info. |
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02-27-2008, 09:07 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Peppermint Shrimp
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Seattle area Age: 36
Posts: 448
| Quote:
Originally Posted by bmshehan Oh, and if your salinity is good, topping off should be done with water only, no salt. Unless your talking about adding water to start your tank. Just topping off because of evaporation, the salt is already in the water. | You're right. I actually thought of that after I logged off. LOL! |
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02-28-2008, 03:48 AM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Giant Squid
Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Elizabethtown, IN Age: 40
Posts: 3,288
| Holy crap for $300 you can have a nice RO/DI unit. Try Air Water & Ice as they are a 3reef sponsor. I got a Typhoon III and love it. Customer service is great too. _________ Scott 265g (Peninsula)
3x400w MH's, 4x95w Actinics, AAT Lunar Lights, OM 4-way CL, PM Bullet 3 Skimmer, DelZone Eclipse 1 O3 Generator, WavySea Plus for return, AAT Kalk Reactor, KNOP Ca Reactor w/PM Second Chamber, TradeWinds Chiller, ACIII Controller, Oceanus ATO, PM PO4 Reactor, 75g Sump, 30g Fuge Born March 5, 2007 My 265 Gal. Tank Thread " REAL TIME TANK STATS "  |
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02-28-2008, 04:53 AM
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#8 (permalink)
| | Peppermint Shrimp
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Seattle area Age: 36
Posts: 448
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Otty Holy crap for $300 you can have a nice RO/DI unit. Try Air Water & Ice as they are a 3reef sponsor. I got a Typhoon III and love it. Customer service is great too. |
Thanks Otty, will check these out. |
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